Day 50 - Samarkand, Uzbekistan to Haft Kul, Tajikistan
After crossing the border, the scenery changed swiftly, revealing mountains before us. It was an exciting moment as we would be camping for the first time - shockingly - during this trip.
The Shing Valley is famous for its seven lakes, formed by an earthquake that created natural dams across the valley - or if you prefer to believe the legend, formed by 7 beautiful but lovelorn daughters transforming into water to be at one with their tears. Each lake along the dirt road was higher than the previous one, and our goal was to reach the seventh lake at 2400m.
As we followed the river, the rugged yet stunning landscape unfolded before us. Tall, jagged mountains encircled the beautiful lakes and small villages. Most people we encountered were friendly, although a few women preferred hiding their face away from us. The villages, though poor, were well-maintained, and traditional activities like farming, consolidating stone walls or making mud bricks were visible.
The trail became more challenging after the sixth lake, especially with our heavily loaded bikes. We faced wet rocky sections and a small washed-out bridge. However, our efforts paid off when we finally arrived at the seventh lake, which offered the perfect camping spot. It was serene and surrounded by breathtaking scenery.
Soon after we set up our tent, a man arrived. He had left his car behind due to the difficult road conditions. He was friendly and from Dushanbe, visiting the area for the first time. He kindly shared a glass of vodka with us, and then ended up leaving half a bottle for us to enjoy in the evening.
We were surprised to see a heavily modified Toyota 4x4 making its way to the lake. The driver, who spoke English well, was also from Dushanbe and on his first visit to the area. We had a pleasant conversation with him while taking in the beauty around us.
Beyond the seventh lake, there was no road, but we noticed people on small donkeys transporting goods along a narrow trail. It made us wonder about how far were their houses and the challenges they faced without electricity or facilities. We saw several groups of 2-3 small donkeys, often with young boys on the donkeys while women walked along side them. They moved swiftly, returning as soon as they unloaded or loaded their bags at the nearest village.
We felt rejuvenated in this peaceful place. Since none of the locals stayed the night, we had the entire area to ourselves. The temperature was perfect, creating a pleasant atmosphere to unwind and enjoy our surroundings.
The beginning of the valley and ascension
Organic construction
The second of the seven lakes
The sixth of the seven lakes
Riding along the sixth of the seven lakes
The South end of the sixth lake
Arriving to the 7th lake!
After a group with donkeys made a halt by the lake, these 3 kids came to see us
Happiness
This man lived very close by and came to visit a couple of times. We couldn't exchange with words but he was serene and considerate.
Cheers!
You can see our tents on the left edge of the picture
Gourmet dinner tonight! (1 Euro :)
Transporting construction material on this narrow trail
Day 50 - 150 km
Day 51 - Haft Kul to Dushanbe, Tajikistan
We rose early and savored a cup of coffee while basking in the scenery. The weather was ideal, with clear blue skies and a refreshing temperature—a welcome relief from the recent days of heat.
We took a short hike and encountered more fellows accompanied by donkeys. It seemed that news of our journey had spread, as they already knew we came from France.
At 7:30 am, we embarked on our bikes. At 7:31 am, the sky unleashed rain and wind upon us! We felt fortunate that the rain held off while we were packing up camp.
However, the rain proved troublesome for the trail, making the section between the seventh and sixth lake even more treacherous. Eventually, the rain subsided, allowing us to appreciate the return trip along the serene lakes.
Continuing on the main road toward Dushanbe, we were met with enthusiastic children who waved at us with beaming smiles. The more adventurous ones even ran to the road, attempting high-fives, which, while endearing, seemed dangerous and potentially painful for them. At least we were protected by gloves.
The landscape appeared incredibly rugged in this area, as if shaped by the same earthquake that formed the lakes. Everything was sharp, solid, and angular. Even the river's water raged, crashing against invisible rocks, still untamed by its force.
Passing through several towns, we noticed markets situated right on the main street, creating traffic chaos. The limited selection of products—onions, watermelons, and apricots—indicated that they sold only what was in season.
As we journeyed further, we traversed a wide, fertile valley encircled by mountains. The valley gradually narrowed until we found ourselves riding along a river gorge, with swift-flowing water and steep mountains on either side. Maneuvering our bikes along the winding road through the canyon was an exhilarating experience.
Finally, we reached the M34 and ventured through the 5km-long Anzob Tunnel. The tunnel proved to be a nerve-wracking ordeal. The road surface was completely wet due to known drainage issues, the lighting was minimal, and there was heavy oncoming truck traffic. Dirk, unfortunately, got drenched (as he had left his vents open) when a large truck drove through a sizable water puddle in the opposite lane.
About 30 kilometers before Dushanbe, the heat returned, subjecting us once again to temperatures of 40 degrees Celsius.
Dushanbe is full of huge governments buildings, many of which were still under construction by Chinese companies. primary function appeared to be to provide a place to hang even more huge posters of the Dictator en Chef.
Water rushing out from the 7th lake to reach the next one 🙂
Everything is hand made, from the wooden saddle to the stirrups
That is the trail, not the river, after the rain hit us 😮
Dirk meeting the locals
View on the 6th lake
The rough landscape on our way to Duschanbe
Day 51 - 285 km
Day 52 - Dushanbe to Qalaikhum, Tajikistan
We found Dushanbe lacking in charm, so we were excited to venture towards new horizons. The landscape surrounding us was dominated by hills covered in yellowing grass, evoking summertime in California. The temperature remained high at 40 degrees Celsius.
We have a fondness for taking forgotten roads, particularly those bypassed by tunnels. These roads are often neglected and in poor condition, but they often reward us with splendid views of the valleys below.
In the early afternoon, we commenced our ascent, which would eventually lead us to the next valley. It was here that we caught our first glimpse of Afghanistan and the Panj River. Along the way, we encountered the first of many checkpoints where we needed to present our passports and GBAO permits, necessary for traveling in the Pamirs.
The ride along the Panj River through the steep river valley was truly remarkable. The scenery was breathtaking, surpassing any photo's ability to capture its true beauty. We relished the fact that there were only a few cars on the entire road, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the stunning surroundings.
Surrounded by high, steep jagged mountains following what can only be described as a raging river and all the while Afghanistan is only 100m away across the river
By mid-afternoon, we arrived in Qalaikhum and checked into a hotel situated right by the river.
A forgotten road provided us with phenomenal views of the Nurek reservoir; we navigated around land slides and sections that were quite rough and narrow
Cow dung patties used for burning in winter
The mighty Panj River that we followed for a very long time marks the border with Afghanistan
The whole border on the Afghan side is marked by this dirt road. Borders have to be patrolled!
The only bridge to Afghanistan in the region. It's only 50 m away but guarded by the militaries
There is so little flat area to live on, on the Afghan side, with vertiginous cliffs everywhere
Wheat is still cut and gathered by hand (Afghan side)
Day 52 - 365 km
Day 53 - Qalaikhum
We've decided to extend our stay for another night in this small town. While there isn't much to do here, we're filled with anticipation as we hope to meet up with our dear friend Christian this afternoon. Christian, a fellow rider from San Francisco, had originally planned to join us on the Pamirs journey. Months ago, he had made arrangements for travel and bike rental to meet us in Dushanbe. Unfortunately, my accident in Kosovo caused a delay in our arrival. However, Christian didn't hesitate long before deciding to continue with his travel plans and embark on the trip solo instead. That level of bravery is truly impressive! Riding in this region is challenging enough, but undertaking it solo right out of the plane is a remarkable achievement.
Although we couldn't ride together as planned, we are grateful that we will have an evening to spend together. However, there is a slight concern as Christian's rental bike has encountered mechanical issues, which might affect his timely arrival.
In the meantime, we are enjoying the bohemian atmosphere of this place. I finally have the opportunity to install the front tire I had been carrying since Kosovo and attend to a few other tasks on the bikes.
Across the river, the women in their yards and balconies are already busy with their morning activities. There is a lot of cleaning going on. Everything seems fine until one of them discards an entire case of plastic bottles and other items directly into the river. It's a shocking sight, as habits die hard, and for centuries, waste was biodegradable and taken care of by the river. Unfortunately, times have changed.
At 2:30 pm, we hear the sound of a motorcycle, and to our delight, it's Christian! This guy is truly a champion!
We spend a fantastic time together, eagerly listening to the tales of his adventures in the Pamirs and appreciating all the helpful tips he shares with us.
Our hotel is on the left, middle. In the background Afghanistan and the mighty Panj River
Are they big enough? 😄
The great meal served by our hotel
Swapping tires. I can finally get rid of the front tire I've been carrying since the Kosovo.
His megalomania is above anything I've ever seen. There must be hundred thousands huge posters of him like that in the country, all slightly different but where he always appears as a giant.
The hotel's owner insisted for taking us to visit a luxury hotel (with hints of Las Vegas) where the President came a couple of times. They are very proud of it, but there was no customers at all.
He made it 👏🏻
Buddies, reunited!
What a beautiful place to have a beer!
Day 54 - Qalaikhum to Khorog, Tajikistan
Our fun celebration last night couldn't go on for too long since we had to rise before 3:30 am and depart at 4:00 am! There were scheduled road closures starting at 7 am, and we needed to pass through the roadwork section before that time. Christian had warned us about the challenges posed by the narrow dirt road, the presence of large trucks, and the blinding dust, so we were filled with apprehension.
The initial half-hour was shrouded in darkness, accompanied by the swirling dust kicked up by passing cars and trucks. The combination of potholes and the nearby river without any protective barriers made it quite frightening. As the dawn gradually shed some light, the situation improved slightly, but it remained difficult to navigate past the trucks and taxi SUVs speeding towards Khorog, carrying passengers.
The road was narrow and high above the river bed at times and it was an amazing sight to see large trucks navigate the corners with the outside wheels almost off the edge of the road; we would at times have to squeeze by the trucks on the inside with not even 1m of space between the mountain and the trucks (passing on the outside was simply not an option given the narrow width of road and the sharp high drop off in to the river)
Thankfully, after 1.5h we eventually managed to overtake them all, and the ride became more enjoyable.
Upon reaching a checkpoint with a closed barrier, we parked our vehicle and approached a small cabin, only to discover that the officer in charge was dozing off in his chair . Discreetly, we left a photocopy of our passport and GBAO Permit before circumventing the barrier.
While passing through small and peaceful villages with narrow streets and witnessing shepherds guiding their animals, it was hard to imagine that these serene places would soon be overrun by dozens of passing trucks. China has constructed a road to the Pamirs exclusively for their commercial trucks, transporting cars and other goods. Unfortunately, the weighty trucks cause extensive damage to the roads! Conveniently, Chinese companies then offer to rebuild them with better quality.
We arrived in Khorog before 10:30 am, and luckily, our hotel allowed us to check in early. The entire hotel stands right on the river, supported by sturdy poles.
The scary sight of a big truck coming at you at night (it was darker than on the picture) on a narrow dirt road. You have to be lucky and be on a section wide enough since the truck will not back up and we don't have a reverse gear 😄
Hard to see on the picture but the wires actually dip in the water 😱
Scary to pass those trucks, some with an additional trailer
Finally out of traffic and with some beautiful scenery on the Afghan side
We look small on such a dramatic landscape
Kids are always fans
Day 54 - 250 km
Day 55 - Khorog to Zong, Tajikistan
Khorog is the gateway to the Pamir region and stands as its regional capital. In my mind, this area holds great anticipation and is expected to be one of the highlights of our journey. Surrounded by majestic peaks reaching up to 7000 meters, it emanates a sense of remoteness that I have longed for.
In terms of its people, Khorog differs from the rest of Tajikistan, as the Pamiris are recognized as an Eastern Iranian ethnic group. The Pamiri culture has been shaped by their adherence to Zoroastrian beliefs, Ismailism, and the challenging conditions of life in the Tajikistan's Pamir Mountains.
With this in mind, I wake up filled with excitement as our first adventure of the day takes us along the Wakan corridor, a slender strip of Afghanistan that connects it to China. We prepare early to make the most of this experience, but as I load my bags onto the bike, I realize that the rear rack is completely broken! The rough roads we have traveled on recently have taken their toll, and the shocks and vibrations finally broke this aftermarket part. Since we will be returning to Khorog, I ask the hotel owner if he can help me find a welder to repair it upon our return. Despite the setback, we manage to secure the luggage without the rack, although it means sacrificing some space on the saddle. And so, we embark on our journey.
The road continues to trace the course of the Panj River, closely following the border with Afghanistan. As we ascend in elevation, the surrounding mountains grow increasingly imposing. The road, initially with remnants of pavement, eventually transforms into dirt. We make a brief detour to experience the Garam Chashma, the most renowned open-air hot spring in the Pamirs. A single pool, surrounded by cascading calcified deposits, evokes memories of Turkey's Pamukkale, albeit on a much smaller scale. Unfortunately, I couldn't capture a picture of the pool itself as all the men (women have different visiting times) were naked.
The haze that has plagued us for days is dissipating, revealing a landscape that initially lacks the excitement we have grown accustomed to. Perhaps we have been spoiled recently. However, we enjoy the scarcity of cars on the road and the temperature hovering around 30 degrees, a significant improvement. The only slight inconvenience is the half-dozen military checkpoints along the way, but they don’t take too much time to clear.
The kids wave to us, we wave to the adults and most wave back. People work in the fields by hand. I even witnessed five young men pulling an augur with a rope, while others relied on a pair of donkeys.
We make a second detour to visit the Yamchun Fortress, an ancient citadel that dates back to the 4th century and was further expanded in the 12th century. Although it now lies in ruins, numerous original round towers from its original 36 still stand. The panoramic views of the Wakhan Valley, adorned with the snow-capped peaks of the Hindukush, are simply breathtaking.
As the day draws to a close, we search for a place to spend the night. Langar seems to have three homestays, but they lack appeal, and the village itself consists of just a few scattered houses. We backtrack a couple of kilometers, but Hisor also proves unsuccessful. Eventually, we venture even further back to Zong, where we planned to refuel, and find a nice homestay, with a store and the “gas station”. The best part is that it’s located in front of a beautiful an serene scenery where we enjoy taking a hike before dinner
Never buy AliExpress again 😄
Dirk in front of Garam Chashma, the most renowned open-air hot spring in the Pamirs
We couldn't get enough of the views!
We had a bit of everything, including sand dunes
The Yamchun Fortress, an ancient citadel that dates back to the 4th century and was further expanded in the 12th century
Hard to beat the scale, the ruins, the vertical cliffs and the snowcapped summits in the background
This 12th-century fort is the most impressive of the Wakhan Valley's many tumbledown castle ruins, complete with multiple walls and round watchtowers
All the mountain pictures depict the Afghan side, where every available square meter is utilized for cultivation or human habitation
Gas by the bucket!
The-store-that-has-everything
Rush hour in front of our homestay
Beautiful scenery in front of our homestay
Day 55 - 275 km
Day 56a - Zong to Murghab, Tajikistan
Yesterday, we received confirmation that the Bartang Valley is open, despite the presence of numerous water crossings. As a result, we have decided not to return to Khorog today but instead stay in Murghab, en route to the Bartang.
The journey from Zong started with a steep climb up a narrow trail, characterized by slippery switchbacks. Our ascent took us from an altitude of 2800 m (9,200 ft) in Zong to 4365 m (14,320 ft) at the Khargush Pass.
The weather rapidly changes, prompting us to close our vents as rain begins to fall. The looming rain clouds in the distance add to the sense of uncertainty. The scenery is breathtaking, with each valley revealing a new and captivating vista. Some sections resemble Death Valley, except here we are at an altitude of around 4000 meters. It's astonishing to see enormous mountains towering way higher above us.
Miraculously, we managed to avoid the storms. Given the ominous horizon we witnessed, it felt like a stroke of luck.
There is scarce traffic on the road, with only a few cyclists crossing our path. I catch sight of two adorable marmots, a rare encounter with wildlife on this trip so far.
We come across a completely destroyed bridge, replaced by two large pipes covered with hefty stones. Crossing this makeshift structure proves somewhat challenging due to the wet and sizable rocks.
Shortly before reaching the pass, we encounter a military fort and checkpoint. As customary, we provide copies of our passports and GBAO passes. Then we make a sharp left turn, heading directly north towards the Khargush Pass. It is only at this point that the Afghanistan border disappears from sight. The road deteriorates, and we find ourselves constantly searching for the best line through the rocky terrain. Numerous ruts and occasional patches of sand add to the challenge.
Finally, we reach the pavement of the Pamir Highway, where we have to constantly weave our way through the many large potholes that litter the road.
By early afternoon, we arrive in Murghab, marking the end of our journey for the day.
Hummm, is it time for a break? 😄
We're heading that way, but luckily escaped the heavy rain
Alichur, the town where Christian Renninger spent the night after his dead battery
When the clouds compete with the mountains
Day 56 - 240 km
Day 56b - Murghab, Tajikistan
With a population of 7,500, Murghab is the only significant town in the eastern half of the Pamir. It’s the highest town in Tajikistan 3,650 m (12,000 ft) and so the winters are really cold. Murghob is unappealing in my opinion with most houses being small and poorly maintained, but the surroundings are very beautiful.
No cell data is available either so we wander in the “streets” of this bizarre city. We come across just one guesthouse, making our choice easy. Though rustic, the price of $10 per person for a bed, breakfast, and dinner is a real bargain.
As we explore the dirt streets, we notice that each one seems to have a shared well, since there is no running water here. We stroll through the container bazaar, but unfortunately, the majority of the containers are closed. Thankfully, a few shops remain open, allowing us a glimpse inside.
Since we anticipate camping in the Bartang Valley, we gather gas from a bucket and purchase some food. With no pre-made meals available, our options are limited to pasta and canned fish.
Getting gas from a bucket. The 2 men on the left wear the traditional Kyrgyz hat, the ak-kalpak, made of four pieces of white wool felt sewn together
The courtyard of our homestay where we met two very nice Dutch riders. The weather in Murghob is truly unpredictable. Due to its high elevation, the climate undergoes changes every 30 minutes today, which is quite astonishing. Again, we’re lucky and don’t get any rain.
The main store in town. If you like sweets you're in luck, if not your choice is more limited.
Our beautiful room!
Rustic adobe houses and dusty streets, but what a view!
The second (or third?) life of containers
I love the malle on the roof and how many people were able to fit into this old Russian jeep
Local market
Serving dinner on the traditional low table. Hard on our broken knees, but not on this Korean man who is traveling by bicycle 😳
Day 57a - Murghab to Savnob, Tajikistan
Our destination for this morning is Lake Kara-Kul. Despite the sunny weather and the increasing warmth, we knew we put on our heated jackets as we were about to tackle the Ak Baital pass at an elevation of 4655m (15270 ft).
The road to the pass offered very nice scenery, and when we finally reached the sign for the pass, it turned out to be around 1km before the actual summit. The road transformed into dirt, and a series of switchbacks guided us to the top.
Once we crossed over, the sight of the mountains on the other side was simply breathtaking. Everywhere we looked, there were jagged, snow-covered peaks, creating a truly splendid landscape.
Throughout the day, we encountered numerous marmots crossing the road in front of us, adding a touch of wildlife to our journey. As we neared Lake Kara-Kul, the valley widened, revealing the majestic mountains that encircled the lake.
Within a few kilometers of the town of Karakul, the vast lake came into view. Eager to reach its edge, we found a dirt road that ran parallel to the shoreline.
Initially, our plans were to cross to Kyrgyzstan right there. However the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan has been closed for a while, forcing us to take a detour of a whopping 1800 km instead of the initial 80 km. Quite a significant change, to say the least!
Time to get back on the main road and get to the Bartang Valley road turn off.
It's hard for me to understand why people would establish themselves in a place freezing in winters, with no electricity nor running water. Being on their own? Force of habit? Feeling of freedom? Stunning beauty of the landscape?
Still some ice at this elevation
It's incredible to realize that we are riding at almost the elevation of the Mt-Blanc, highest summit in Europe! Horns from a Marco Polo sheep
It was so beautiful 🤩
Even more precarious conditions for these families. You may be able to see a woman doing laundry in the freezing creek 😮
The kids from these yurts run to meet us. I so wished I had some goodies to give them
Along the lake Kara-kul. Apparently, the lake doesn't thaw until May!
Not much happening in Karakol this morning 😄
Day 57 - 300 km
Day 57b - Murghab to Savnob, Tajikistan
The Bartang Valley road holds a legendary status among motorcyclists, particularly the first half when approaching from Lake Kara-Kul. It offers very high elevation with breathtaking scenery and no human presence.
At the beginning of the road, we traversed a wide and relatively flat plateau, where previous travelers had created their own tracks that intersected at various points. It was enjoyable to freely choose our path, although we had to be wary of washouts that occasionally halted our progress.
We meandered our way around mountains, moving from one valley to the next, each offering its own unique and spectacular sights to behold. Eventually, the road led us along the edge of a canyon, with the Bartang river flowing below, creating a truly spectacular vista.
Before long, we encountered the renowned switchbacks of the Kök Jar pass, known as one of the world's most perilous roads. With great caution, we navigated the sharp and steep corners, fully aware that a single misplacement of the front wheel could have catastrophic consequences.
Upon successfully maneuvering through the initial set of switchbacks, we were rewarded with an awe-inspiring view of the Bartang Valley. It was almost unbelievable that we had made it to this remarkable place.
The road within the valley itself was frequently interrupted by sections that had been washed out, rendering them rocky and challenging. Fortunately, our experience riding similar terrain in the deserts of California proved very valuable.
We crossed numerous tributaries along the way, some of which presented deeper and more demanding challenges than others. At times, the road had been completely engulfed by the river, forcing us to cautiously ride through the water, hoping it wasn't too deep or hiding large rocks beneath the surface.
The sheer immensity of the mountains was staggering. They stood tall and steep, unlike anything we had ever witnessed before, leaving us in awe of their grandeur.
It was really deep and a strong flow! Thanks Dirk for the picture.
This bridge is not in great shape but it feels so good to not have to cross the river again 😂
Our first encounter with Yacks!
One more river crossing, in a spectacular setting
Ever changing scenery
I absolutely loved this section: fainted road, compact sand, tall and steep snowcapped mountains 🤩
The only ones I could photograph!
We will soon go down to that glacial valley, way below.
It may not look like it but this part was very tricky! The Bartang river is now in full force and the trail is invaded from both sides: rocks from the left and raging water from the right 😱
No more visible trail! We have to take our chances and hope that it's still OK under the water.
The first village we finally met, Ghudara
Day 57c - Savnob, Tajikistan
After a fantastic riding day, on a road where we encountered no vehicle at all, we finally reached the entrance sign for Savnob and saw a few houses on a steep and rocky slope. There were no proper streets, only paths suitable for our motorcycles. We had a waypoint for a guesthouse but couldn't find it until a young girl appeared and directed us to a house up the hill.
After we arrived, our host prepared a snack and tea for us. We enjoyed the refreshments in the garden beneath an apricot tree, served on a raised platform table. Despite limited English, our host impressed us with his intelligence and education. He had a teaching degree from Dushanbe but chose to live in his village. He built a good part of his house. The stone walls with alternating flat and round stones, caught our attention for its aesthetics and, we were told, durability.
Some things remained rustic of course, as there was no running water, and we had to use a outhouse (like in Murghab).
Being in the middle of nowhere, we wondered where the products came from. Occasionally, an SUV brought supplies, but most of what they offered us was locally sourced. They had delicious homemade bread made from wheat grown in their garden, milled using a water-powered mill in the village. We also enjoyed their homemade apricot jam and snacked on the seeds from inside the kernels, which resembled small almonds. Again, he planted the trees himself about 15 years ago. Additionally, they had potatoes and will have greens available in July, as the winter temperatures reached -25°C, limiting the vegetable season. They relied as well on their dozen animals—cows, sheep, goats, and chickens—for sustenance.
The host's brother, who spoke better English, shared that the Soviets brought good things, especially infrastructure like roads, hospitals, and schools to the region but disrupted the locals' self-sufficiency. It took them 20-30 years after Tajikistan's independence to relearn the ancient ways of being autonomous in the mountains for months at a time.
Reflecting on the fantastic riding day and a thought-provoking evening, I felt blessed and even thought, "If the trip ended there, I would be content," though I quickly dismissed this notion to avoid bringing bad luck on me .
Later that evening, our host informed us that tomorrow is a national and religious holiday, Eid al-Adha, and we were welcome to witness the ceremony.
The raised platform table under an apricot tree. Perfect for eating/drinking but also for a nap afterwards 🙂
A few animals wandering around the yard. It's all about self-sufficiency 🙂
That's their vegetable garden, with the same beautiful walls as the house. And of course the now-capped peaks in the background
Day 58a - Idi Qurbon ceremony in Savnob, Tajikistan
Idi Qurbon or Eid al-Adha, in Arabic, is a national holiday in Tajikistan known as the "Festival of Sacrifice." It is an important religious holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to honor the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ismail as an act of obedience to God. However, by God's command, Abraham was able to sacrifice a ram instead.
In traditional or agrarian settings, like the one we were in, each family would slaughter a domestic animal, typically a sheep, as a sacrificial offering. The meat would then be divided into three equal parts for distribution. One-third of the meat is consumed by the family, another third is given to relatives, friends, or neighbors, and the remaining third is offered as a gift to the poor.
On the morning of the festival, before 7 am, we opened our bedroom door to find a room filled with 20 men engaged in prayer, accompanied by a sheep. This particular sheep had been raised with special care for three years and was meticulously washed the day before. Now, it was an integral part of the ceremony, soon to be sacrificed and shared among the villagers. While each region has its own traditions, in this small village, the ceremony commenced even before sunrise, with six sheep being sacrificed in different households, including our own.
Until that moment, we hadn't encountered anyone in the village. However, at 7 am, our house and yard were teeming with people and children, all immersed in a festive atmosphere. Despite the fact that an animal would be slaughtered for consumption, the overall ambiance was one of celebration and sharing among the villagers, particularly benefiting those who were less fortunate.
I sought permission to capture pictures, which was granted. However, I tried to not be in the way and ensured that my video recording involving the sheep was brief.
We felt so lucky to be invited to this moving ceremony! We almost stayed another day as they told us they had set apart some meat but we hesitantly decided to get back on the road.
The deeper we travel into the Pamir the more basic the room and beds become 🙂
Happy kids, excited by the ceremony
The women were the ones playing the drums for the cermony
Preparing the meat to share with the villagers
Our kind host giving us more delicious home bread (from the ceremony) for our breakfast
I was moved by what seems like a small gesture: the mother of the family brought me while I was packing this necklace of apricots seeds. There was a lot of time and care involved in preparing the almonds and making a necklace with them 🥰
Day 58b - Savnob to Khorog, Tajikistan
Filled with the wonders of yesterday's ride and the enriching cultural exchanges we experienced, we resumed our journey. We were still traversing the Bartang Valley, albeit in a flatter and more manageable section compared to the previous day. Along the way, we encountered a few small villages.
At one point, while riding along a trail by the river, I was simply switching lanes (tire tracks), a maneuver I had performed countless times on that road without any problems. However, this time, the rear tire slipped on the gravel edge, and there was no time to regain control. The crash wouldn't have been so severe if my right ankle hadn't struck a sharp rock. Based on the pain and my experience, I was pretty sure that my ankle was broken. Far away from any city there was no better option than getting back on the bike with Dirk’s assistance. The issue is that we still had three hours of dirt roads followed by an hour of rough pavement before reaching the nearest town, Khorog.
The problem was that off-road riding requires standing up on the footpegs for comfort and bike control, as well as using the rear brake for safety. With a broken ankle, I could do neither. I was in pain and tense, aware that even the slightest imbalance on the right side could cause me to fall as I couldn't rely on my leg to support the bike.
We encountered river crossings and other challenging obstacles along the way, and each time Dirk offered to ride my bike and help out. However, that would have meant hopping across the river on one leg, which was an even worse prospect.
Nevertheless, we finally arrived in Khorog, where we struggled to locate the local and rudimentary hospital. The X-rays confirmed the broken ankle, leading to it being placed in a cast, effectively signaling the end of the trip.
It's quite disappointing, but I must say that it was an incredible finale to an amazing two-month ride. I feel very fortunate to have experienced such an adventure.
Nothing glorious about a simple crash on a normal trail but here it is 😕
Have a look at the angle of the other end of the bridge 😱
Day 58 - 210 km
Epilogue
Now that the accident is in the past, both of us are faced with decisions. The primary one is to determine what will happen for the remainder of the trip. For me, the choice is simpler because it's impossible to complete it this year. Waiting 5-6 weeks for my ankle to heal would mean encountering snow and getting stranded before reaching our final destination, so I have no choice but to wait until next summer.
Dirk could continue on his own, as some solo travelers do every year. However, the level of risk increases significantly in case of an injury like the one I just had. To my great joy, Dirk decided to stick with me and complete the remainder of the journey together next summer! As a reminder, this was supposed to be a 4-month journey going all the way to Mongolia and Siberia, with 2 more months to go.
Now it's all about logistics: finding a place to store the bikes, transporting mine to the capital (Dushanbe), and booking plane tickets. Speaking of which, I was very disappointed with the assistance we had subscribed to, called #Medjet. We realized that it only covered transportation from one hospital to another within your home country, when you are an inpatient. Nowadays, most surgeries for broken ankles and similar injuries are outpatient procedures, so this assistance only works if you're injured enough to be hospitalized but not enough to survive transport back home. It's pretty much useless considering the price we paid.
Fortunately, we managed to find a van that could transport both me and my bike to Dushanbe. I'm still amazed that my bike fit inside that van, and I'm relieved that it finally did. The 18-hour drive on treacherous roads (dirt and badly damaged pavement) with a broken ankle was far from enjoyable, but now everything is fine. The bikes have been safely stored in a location where they will remain for a year until we can resume our journey.
I want to express my gratitude to Dirk, without whom dealing with all of this in my condition would have been almost impossible.
Thankfully we had help from other riders staying at our hotel!
It was extremely tight, even with removing the front wheel
