We are in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, restarting our adventure. we arrived a couple of days ago at 2am, after a 20-hour journey. The Green House hostel, where we're staying, has a vastly different vibe from our last stop; even at 2am, the courtyard was buzzing with a dozen people chatting. We chose it because the hostel is a popular spot for motorcyclists and cyclists, and there are indeed plenty of bikes parked inside.
Eager to see our bikes, we headed to the storage place after a few hours of sleep. The bikes were parked outside, covered in dust with their covers removed (!), and the batteries were dead. Thankfully, we were able to bring new lithium batteries on the plane. We spent hours under the intense sun making the bikes rideable, especially mine, which needed a complete headlight assembly replacement. Aziz, the Bike House owner, had moved his workshop since our last visit but came to help us out.
Being here is an intriguing mix of familiarity and the need to reacclimate after a year away. We've met many interesting travelers at the hostel. Compared to last year, this is the start of the busy tourist season. Most of the travelers are French, but there’s a good mix, including Russians. The Russian travelers, with their tattoos and club insignia jackets, initially seemed tough and intimidating. However, when I pointed out a flat tire to one of them, they engaged with us despite the language barrier and turned out to be very friendly.
We spent an entire day at the new Bike House, a rather rundown place, where Aziz made some space for us and lent us heavy tools that we didn't carry. We replaced the chains and sprockets, brake pads, engine oil and filter, and air filter.
We’re looking forward to hitting the road again tomorrow!
Finally reunited with our bikes!
The Green House hostel has a nice vibe and plenty of interesting vehicles and travelers
Russians motorcyclists: often tough on the outside but very nice people
Delicious spread of Turkish food
Aziz moved a couple of bikes and “cleaned” a bit of space to allow us to work in the shade of his workshop
The floor was not pristine 😂
Warm from the oven it was one of the best breads I ever had!
We’re happy to enjoy a meal of Plov again, a delicious rice plate
Aziz is not the most organized person but a very nice guy!
Map for this section
Day 60 - Dushanbe to Kuhjand, Tajikistan
Our first day of riding in this new leg of our journey – so exciting! Ready to hit the road, we found Sunday morning to be an ideal time to leave, with the usually chaotic Dushanbe streets surprisingly quiet.
We navigated up a canyon along a two-lane road lined with weekend resorts. The weather was cloudy with light drizzle, so we stopped to close our front vents before entering the cold and damp Anzob Tunnel, also known as the "Tunnel of Death." As we wound through the canyon and ascended to the tunnel, we saw several lightning strikes nearby, which is always a bit unsettling on a motorcycle.
We navigated this terrifying 5 km stretch of total darkness and wetness last year, hoping for better luck this time. Fortunately, there were fewer potholes, and no trucks doused Dirk in cold, muddy water like last year, which was a relief. However, I had a huge scare in an especially slippery section when my rear wheel started to slide with the slightest acceleration. I'm incredibly lucky I didn't go down in such a dangerous spot, the first day of traveling
After leaving the tunnel, we followed the twisty road down to the canyon floor, where we had to decide whether to take the alternate dirt route over the Obburdon Pass (4000m). Seeing nothing but dark clouds in that direction and this already being an eventful riding day, we chose to stay on the main track. We enjoyed a fun, winding road that meandered along the river in the canyon.
Ascending out of the canyon, we emerged into green alpine meadows with streams running through them. As we continued, we reached a plateau where it started to rain heavily. We could see the sun in the distance, seemingly just a few minutes away, but it took us at least another half an hour of riding to reach it. Once out of the rain, the temperature quickly rose, drying off our wet gear. The plateau, initially dry, transformed into lush farmland aided by irrigation, with a mountain range paralleling it to the east.
After a couple of hours riding in 40°C heat, we were exhausted and decided to stop in Khujand, the second largest city in the country, where it would be easy to find a hotel with air conditioning. After resting for a bit, we got back on the bikes to visit the town’s few historical attractions. It didn’t take long, so we went for a drink near the main square.
It wasn’t long before we struck up conversations with other patrons, and we were invited to join a table of five gentlemen having a great time… and vodka . They asked a young man at another table to join us to translate. He kindly obliged for a while to help us feel more welcome before returning to his friends. One of the gentlemen, Fakhri, knew just enough English to communicate, but with vodka, language barriers seemed to dissolve.
Following the tradition of always ordering food with vodka, we were encouraged to eat plenty of delicious shashlik with the sweetest raw onions I’ve ever had. It was so good! It was then a game of attrition with the gentlemen leaving one by one, quite drunk. One of them promised to send us a couple of premium bottles of Tajik vodka to our hotel by morning. He even insisted on sending a bottle of Tajik wine, as he was adamant that I should become his wine importer!
Fakhri took us to an outdoor table, where we enjoyed the gorgeous sunset and the cooling temperature. Later, his wife joined us, and we were delighted to finally be able to treat them.
Goodbye Dushanbe!
So good to be again on the open (somewhat) roads
Reminiscing on the near-disaster in this "Tunnel of Death"
We saw plenty of kids selling fruits along the road and here in Kuhjand we got the opportunity to discover how good these onions are.
Our new friend, Fakhri
Life is good at this time of the day 😎
Day 60 - 310 km
Day 61 - Kuhjand, Tajikistan to Fergana, Uzbekistan
Due to ongoing conflicts, the borders between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan have been closed for years, so we have to travel to Uzbekistan first before heading to Kyrgyzstan. This detour is unfortunate because entering Uzbekistan last year was a long and complicated process at the border. However, it gives us an opportunity to visit the Fergana Valley and explore a few places from the historic Silk Road.
Our ride to the border took us through numerous small to mid-sized towns, offering an interesting glimpse into city daily life. As we approached the Tajik-Uzbek border, we wondered what would happen at customs since our motorcycles had far exceeded their 14-day temporary import permits. We had been told to expect a $100 fine each. To our surprise, they did not ask us to pay anything! We suspect they got confused between 2023 and 2024, as our dates of arrival in June were quite close.
After three smooth checks on the Tajikistan side, we felt happy and optimistic. However, entering Uzbekistan proved to be as painful and ridiculously complex as ever. We dealt with seven different officials, unloaded all our bikes for searches, and passed through X-rays. After about two hours, we finally made it through.
On the Uzbek side, the scenery became more pleasant, and the roads were in better shape. The scarcity of motorcycles here turned us into minor celebrities, with locals beaming and waving at us enthusiastically wherever we went.
Today's heat, ranging from 32-35°C, was more bearable than yesterday's, and we're starting to acclimate. However, our heavy gear still makes it quite taxing. The erratic driving around us demands constant vigilance. Even our most enthusiastic "fans" can be dangerous, speeding up to get alongside us to wave and say hello, coming just inches from our bikes.
So we decided to take it easy for our warming up days and stopped relatively early to spend the night in Fergana, a very pleasant town with plenty of accommodations and restaurants.
In front of the minuscule entrance of our hostel
It’s still very hot for us, not for them
Day 61 - 225 km
Day 62 & 63a - Fergana, Uzbekistan to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Day 62 brought us deeper into the Fergana Valley. Despite its reputation as a famous tourist destination, we found it to be a pleasant agricultural valley, but not much more. Another day meant another border crossing, and this time, we were entering Kyrgyzstan! The exit from Uzbekistan was once again a hassle, but the process on the Kyrgyzstan side was smooth, with everyone being nice and relatively efficient. Our destination for the night was Osh, just an hour away, and we enjoyed a leisurely evening there.
We woke up excited on Day 63, ready to head towards the mountains! We had a challenging route planned, with partly dirt roads and a pass at 3600m (11,800ft), so we started early. The scenery became increasingly stunning as we reached the Papan Reservoir. We rode through rolling hills, taking in the many turns and the breathtaking mountains to the south.
Everything was going smoothly until a local at a gas station informed us that the road ahead was no longer passable. This was a major disappointment, as it meant returning to Osh to take an alternative route. Despite the setback, the scenery made the detour worthwhile.
After navigating the heavy traffic in Osh, we wound our way through mountains, ascending and descending. The change of scenery was refreshing. We encountered many yurts and old-style caravans, surrounded by horses and cows grazing on green pastures. The winding road took us up to Taldyk Pass at 3615 meters before we headed towards Sary-Tash.
We saw so many horses, everywhere
The Papan Reservoir
Herding sheep with an interesting device
Love the contrast of the red cliffs with the bright green
Dirk enjoying the road as much as I do
We often saw the exact same old-style caravans, built in metal. Families live like that (temporarily?) alongside the roads
Yaks coming at us!
Day 62 (130 km) & 63a
Day 63b: Osh, Kyrgyzstan to Lenin Peak Base Camp
Coming down from Taldyk Pass and getting closer to Sary-Tash, we were greeted by a breathtaking, snow-covered landscape stretching out before us. Words can hardly capture the beauty of what we saw. We made a quick stop at the market in Sary-Tash to pick up some instant noodles and other essentials for dinner, as we planned to camp near the base camp of Lenin Peak (7134m / 23,400ft).
Turning south onto a dirt road, we headed directly towards Lenin Peak. The summit was partially hidden by clouds, but it was still a magnificent sight. After following the track for just a few hundred meters, we reached the banks of a fast-flowing river. Thankfully, downstream we spotted a small bridge.
The road was marked by many parallel tracks, reminiscent of our journey to the Bartang Valley in Tajikistan. We decided to stick to the track I had planned, which led us to our intended destination with several small stream crossings along the way.
Upon arrival, we caught our first glimpse of Tulpar Lake and the yurts on its southern shore in the distance. We reached the Lenin Peak yurt camp, one of several in the area. Although we had intended to camp, the idyllic setting of the yurts with Lenin Peak as the backdrop persuaded us to spend the night there and enjoy a first night ever in a yurt! This turned out to be a great decision, as rain and thunderstorms arrived in the evening and at 3600m/11,800ft, the night was cold.
We quickly changed into our regular clothes and headed to the main yurt for some tea and cookies, included with the dinner and breakfast.
Sary-Tash is a rough scrappy town but the mountains in the backdrop are incredible
Making our way South, towards the mighty Lenin Peak
Thanks to hikers and climbers going for Lenin Peak, a bit of tourism (a few yurt camps) has developed at the base camp (3600m/11,800ft)
We could not resist this lovely setting!
Our very own yurt, no shoes allowed
The main yurt, for the meals
Welcome teas and cookies at our arrival
Day 63b - Total for Day 63: 340 km
Day 63c: a night at Lenin Peak Base
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the stunning surroundings, each hill we climbed revealing new facets of this amazing place. Lenin Peak was playing hide and seek with the clouds though. Usually, I try to limit the number of pictures per post, but I love this place so much that there will be plenty of photos in this one. The storm light was beautiful, and the rain wasn’t too bad. We came back for a very simple dinner with the two other visitors and then ventured out once more, eager to capture the light of the sunset on the mountains. A magical moment.
A lonely horse, right by our camp
The afternoon still holds a pleasant temperature
Appropriate attire 😎
We're walking South towards the elusive Lenin Peak
We can almost see Lenin Peak there but not quite
It's so exhilarating to be immersed in such beauty
That's the way the yurts' frames are assembled every time they move to a new site
Step two: add the felt cover for warmth
Our camp, so peaceful at night
Lakes in the sunset
An approaching storm created dramatic light and skies
We did not want this day to end
Day 64a: Lenin Peak Base Camp
Eager to capture the sunrise in such a beautiful setting, I woke up soon after 5 am and set out for a hike. The night had been less than ideal; the beds in our yurt were uncomfortable, with widely spaced slats and thin mattresses. We had gone to bed early with a burning hot stove fueled by cow dung, which made the yurt too hot initially and quite cold once the fire died down. However, the clear skies and breathtaking views more than made up for the discomfort.
I joined Dirk for breakfast, and afterward, we rode as far as possible towards Lenin Peak, intending to continue on foot for an even better view. We didn't get far, as the trail disappeared, and we weren't sure where pedestrians could go. We ended up following some cows that two young boys were herding out to pasture. The narrow animal trail led us down to a fast-flowing creek. As we scrambled up the other side to find a crossing, we discovered two large metal containers in the creek used to collect water, which was fed into long lines supplying water to two yurt camps on the other side. Quite ingenious.
Lenin Peak was perfectly clear this morning—a rare occurrence—and we took in all its beauty.
Before sunrise
Lenin Peak, finally clear
Lenin Peak in the first rays of sun
Everyone is still sleeping down there
I befriended this beautiful young horse
Too few slats is a recipe for a poor sleep
A room with a view
Following the cows' tracks
Ingenious way to capture fresh water and pressurize it way down in the yurt camp
A marmot in its beautiful environment
There were wild flowers everywhere
Dirk contemplating the scenery
The clearest view we had of the Lenin Peak, still very far away from its base
Looking towards the camp and the mountain range in the North
We said goodbye to one of the many marmots around
Day 64b: Lenin Peak Base Camp to Osh
With tons of beautiful images in our head we went back to Osh on the same road we came in. The return trip was just as enjoyable. We saw again many little kids waving at us, and they are so cute when doing that that it always put a big smile on my face!
After such a great experience we were not thrilled to go back to the heat and traffic of Osh.
Coming down from Lenin Peak, with the village of Sary-Moghol in front of us
Looking back, for a last glimpse of Lenin Peak
I love the yaks' young shepherd on a bicycle
The switchbacks after Taldyk Pass
Beautiful colors in this season
Day 64: Lenin Peak Base Camp to Osh
Day 65 - Osh
Osh is Kyrgyzstan’s oldest city, with locals proudly claiming it is ‘older than Rome.’ Despite its 3,000-year history, there's little architectural evidence to showcase its ancient past. The city was undoubtedly a major hub on the Silk Road from its earliest days, but it was decimated by the Mongols in the 13th century before eventually recovering.
There are only two main attractions worth visiting in Osh: the sprawling bazaar and the sacred mountain of Sulayman-Too, which dominates the town. Today, we visited the latter, but first, we had to change our tires.
We went to Zorro Moto to get the new tires we ordered a year ago. We brought our tools to mount them ourselves, but we were relieved when Zorro Moto offered to do it for us, especially given the heat of the day. Jake, one of the owners originally from Oklahoma, provided us with some local information while we waited.
Once the temperature cooled down a bit, we headed to Sulayman-Too, a sacred mountain and UNESCO World Heritage site. It also marked the midpoint of the Silk Road.
The museum on the mountain is housed in ancient caves from the Stone and Bronze Ages and contains exhumed artifacts from the immediate area. While the museum itself was not particularly impressive, the caves were interesting. The mountain also contains a shrine that supposedly holds the grave of Sulayman (Solomon), a prophet in the Qur’an. Exiting the museum involves climbing a very steep staircase carved out of stone to a larger cave above, which is fronted by a facade seen in many pictures of the mountain.
On our way to the viewpoint on the eastern side of the mountain, we crawled into a very small cave believed to have healing powers for headaches and back pain. However, neither Dirk nor I experienced any relief from our ailments .
The viewpoint also houses a very small mosque originally built by Babur, a descendant of Timur and Genghis Khan. Despite the cloudy weather and strong winds blowing dust into our eyes, we were able to get a fairly good view of Osh.
Jake from Zorro Moto has been very professional and helpful
Out with the old tires, in the new ones!
The very soviet entrance of the cave in the sacred mountain
Dirk joining the fun
Dirk's new tradition of holding Kyrgyz flags
View on Osh from the mountain
I am so looking forward to having my nephew joining us again for part of this adventure! Vincent rode with us for a week last year, from France to Montenegro. This time he's going to spend about 10 days with us. Unfortunately Vincent's plane was delayed so we'll be staying a bit longer in Osh. My nephew was originally scheduled to arrive in Bishkek on June 26th, rent a bike there and join us in Osh on the evening of the 28th by taking the most direct route. Now, his arrival has been pushed to this evening, the 29th. Unfortunately, Vincent's streak of bad luck continued. Yesterday, he had a puncture and broke his air compressor. Today, he had another puncture, hit a closed trail, encountered rain and slippery roads, and had to pick up his bike multiple times.
It turns out his rear tire is also quite worn out, so we bought a new tire (and tubes) for him at Zorro Moto. With Vincent unable to make it on time, we decided to visit the Bazaar, hoping to see him in the evening.
The Jayma Bazaar, which has existed for 2,000 years and stretches for a couple of kilometers, is one of Central Asia's largest. Visiting a bazaar is more enjoyable when you have something to buy, and for us, it was a knife, hex bits, and tubes in the right size, as Vincent’s experience made us wary of punctures. We found everything we needed, although the quality of the Chinese tubes seemed poor.
We received news from Vincent, and incredibly, he had another puncture—his third in two days. Unfortunately, this meant he couldn't join us in Osh. We agreed that he would head to Kazarman and spend the night there, and we would meet him there in a couple of days.
In the evening, we walked to the Shashlik restaurant that Jake had recommended to us the day before. Like most “proper” restaurants here, it had private rooms, either walled off or isolated by curtains. We couldn't get an explanation for this setup.
Another trend we noticed is that, unlike in other Central Asian countries, there were several tables occupied only by women. Mixed tables were rare, but women-only tables were quite frequent.
We bought some dry apricots and pistachios from this guy. Perfect travel food.
Even if the food section was minor compared to the size of the Bazaar, this is the mandatory spices picture
Fashion is for everything, even muslim vails
So many things can be found in the bazaar!
We had some crazy trucks staying at the Hotel!
Day 67 - Osh Animal Market
We left fairly early to visit the Osh Sunday animal market (20 minutes East of the city), a moment I had anticipated for a long time, ensuring we would be here on Sunday morning—the only time the market is open. It’s an outdoor venue where sheep, cows, and horses are bought and sold, sometimes multiple times in a day.
The market was bustling, with many small Hyundai trucks carrying animals already leaving the premises, their transactions completed, even though it was only 8:30 am.
We wandered among the many buyers and sellers, surrounded by hundreds of sheep. Jake had told us about the market's workings. He had gone with his local family to buy five sheep for their wedding with his Kyrgyz wife. Kyrgyz people love meat, and it’s a tradition to kill an animal for an event or in honor of visitors as a show of respect. They often cook lamb pieces for hours to make a wonderful broth, which they serve for dinner with other dishes on the side. The guests are then given all the cooked meat when they leave.
At the market, buyers study the sheep and often grab their rear ends to test for fat, as the fattier the meat, the tastier it is. The sheep here seem to store fat in their rear ends.
Negotiations between sellers and buyers are marked by a firm handshake. If one party lets go, there's no deal. If they maintain the handshake, they conclude the deal with an energetic up-and-down motion.
We meandered through the dense collection of sheep, hoping to witness a deal in progress. The sheep looked very different from those I had seen before, with some being almost the size of a pony. The smell was strong, and the heat was rising.
We heard mooing in the distance and saw men climbing through a small opening in a solid wall. We followed and found ourselves amidst hundreds of cows and bulls, which were smaller than the ones we were familiar with.
Beyond the cows were the horses, although there were relatively few compared to the other livestock. Buyers appeared to be testing the horses' temperaments.
It was an intense experience, filled with the smells, sounds, and movements of animals and people. Not for the faint of heart, but a great way to better understand the local culture.
We had to push our way through the dense flow of sheep and men
Locked eyes and hands, will the deal happen?!?
Shady spots are a premium
A deal has been made
Watch out Mister #metoo 😉
I had never seen sheep with so much fat on their rear end
Nor such a tall one - wearing stilettos
