Turkey marks the initial gateway to Asia and the true origin of the Silk Road. It's a huge country and there are so many captivating sights that it could easily become a journey on its own. Both Dirk and I have previously experienced Istanbul and the stunning Mediterranean coast. While Cappadocia undoubtedly remains a highlight, we've decided to reserve that adventure for a future trip with the family.
Instead, we're setting our sights on the lesser-known Black Sea region, despite its reputation for being more rainy than the southern areas. What entices us to this region is the opportunity to traverse the coastline, while also delving into the heart of the country to explore picturesque villages and majestic mountains.
Day 24 - Plovdiv, Bulgaria to Istanbul, Turkey
Today is mainly a travel day with the sole purpose of reaching Istanbul. After eagerly waiting for this moment, we've encountered a slight hurdle at the Turkish border. Specifically, they have temporarily blocked Dirk's motorcycle because it is registered in France but Dirk doesn’t have French papers. As a result, he has been directed to another building where he has to endure a slow-moving line under the sun, leading to the office for those who have been initially rejected.
Fortunately, when Dirk finally reaches the office, the person there reassures him that everything is fine, seemingly puzzled as to why the Customs officers had raised any concerns. This means we are now allowed entry into Turkey!
It has been quite some time since I last visited Istanbul, and I am truly amazed by how vast, bustling, and modern it has become. Naturally, accommodating 16 million people comes at a cost, and the traffic here is undeniably challenging, even for motorcycles.
After navigating the city's busy streets, we eventually arrive at our "hotel," which may have a windowless room but boasts a perfect location just 200 meters away from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.
Eager to explore the neighborhood, we take a delightful walk and later treat ourselves to a well-deserved beer on a rooftop while admiring the sunset. We have successfully made it to Istanbul, and it's a moment we can truly relish and celebrate!
Dirk, with Hagia Sophia on the background
Enjoying the sunset with views on Hagia Sophia on one side and the Bosphorus on the other side 🤩
Hagia Sophia at night
The gorgeous Blue Mosque
Day 24 - 375 km
Day 25 - Istanbul
During our brief stay in Istanbul, many things surprised me in comparison to my memories:
• The sheer size of the city and the heavy traffic.
• The concentration of tourists in the old town area.
• The significant number of women wearing various forms of traditional coverings, including the burka.
• The prices, which were on par with those in the United States.
• The noticeable presence of a very large number of Russian tourists (more than any other nationality).
What matters though is that the enchantment of Istanbul remains intact! Exploring the historical sites early in the morning was truly delightful. We had the opportunity to visit the iconic landmarks: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace (which required several hours), before finding a place to eat near the Grand Bazaar. We ended up walking much more than I'm accustomed to!
We stayed in a vibrant and sophisticated part of the city, and there is still so much more to discover here. However, our thirst for open spaces and nature draws us back to our eastern journey. Tomorrow morning, we'll be heading out once again, leaving Istanbul behind as we seek new adventures.
• The sheer size of the city and the heavy traffic.
• The concentration of tourists in the old town area.
• The significant number of women wearing various forms of traditional coverings, including the burka.
• The prices, which were on par with those in the United States.
• The noticeable presence of a very large number of Russian tourists (more than any other nationality).
What matters though is that the enchantment of Istanbul remains intact! Exploring the historical sites early in the morning was truly delightful. We had the opportunity to visit the iconic landmarks: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace (which required several hours), before finding a place to eat near the Grand Bazaar. We ended up walking much more than I'm accustomed to!
We stayed in a vibrant and sophisticated part of the city, and there is still so much more to discover here. However, our thirst for open spaces and nature draws us back to our eastern journey. Tomorrow morning, we'll be heading out once again, leaving Istanbul behind as we seek new adventures.
Too early for tourists, and even dogs? 😄
The Blue Mosque, so elegant!
Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia
Such an iconic character of the Istanbul streets
There are so many wonders in the Topkapi Palace! Buildings of very different styles, splendid clothes, ornate weapons etc. Overwhelmed by such magnificence, I choose the simplest one 🙂
All the objects presented in the Topkapi Palace are splendid
View on the Bosphorus from the Topkapi Palace
Making fresh Gozleme for the guests of the restaurant
Topkapi Palace
The Blue Mosque at night
Day 26 - Istanbul to Bolu, Turkey
This morning, it took some navigating to get us out of the city and across the bridge to Asia; welcome to the Silk Road! We entered our first destination, the town of Sile, along the main street next to the shores of the Black Sea. We could see glimpses of the water between the cafes that lined the street. Eventually, we took a left turn to head towards the water and were greeted by the sight of a small bay created by three very large rocks. We made it to the Black Sea!
Around noon, we rode through a village and came across a restaurant or cafe where older gentlemen were gathered, dressed in similar attire and enjoying their lunch on small tables and chairs. It was a perfect Turkish scene! Our enjoyment heightened when we realized that they were all farmers, as we passed a line of parked tractors just down the road.
At one point, we made a stop on the side of a very small road to buy strawberries from an old woman. Although she didn't speak English, we managed to communicate through gestures and smiles. We went back to our bikes and immediately started eating the strawberries. To our surprise, the older woman rushed over with a bottle of water to wash them for us. It was a kind gesture that left a lasting impression.
The remainder of our journey to Bolu was spent following country roads. As we wound our way up the road to 1400 meters, we stumbled upon a village that seemed to have stood still in time. All of the buildings were constructed with wood in what appeared to be a traditional style. Being in the middle of nowhere and riding through this idyllic setting gave us a great feeling of freedom and joy.
Sile, on the Black Sea. Our first contact with the Black Sea 🍾
Sile, on the Black Sea and the resuscitated back T7 🙂
Loved my brief and wordless interaction with her
A village lost in the mountains (and in time)
This was a first for us and we really enjoyed it, so here it is 🙂 YOREM ETLI BOLU MANTI (Traditional) - Hand made thin and small ravioli style pasta in a triangle shape, served with crunched walnuts, yogurt and spices.
Day 26 - 375 km
Day 27 - Bolu to Pinarbasi, Turkey
This morning, we set off towards Yedigöller National Park. Our route took us along country roads, with a few kilometers of dirt here and there. We ascended and descended through lush green countryside until we finally reached the park.
To our surprise, as soon as we crossed the park boundary, the road surface transformed into cobblestone. Carefully navigating between the trees, we made our way to the park gate.
After passing through the gate and making a few turns, we arrived at the second lake, which we had spotted through the trees. Families were gathered at picnic tables, enjoying their meals, while others leisurely strolled along the road. Frankly it was not as gorgeous as we were expecting, but we took some photos and tried to engage in conversation with locals who approached us, curious about where we were from.
Continuing our journey through the park, we encountered an obstacle. The path to the exit in the north was blocked with tape. Unfortunately 2/3 of the park is closed due to a landslide. This was disappointing news, as the detour we now had to take would significantly lengthen our journey.
Studying the map, we found an alternate route towards Safranbolu, our intended lunch destination. Safranbolu's old town was a visual delight. Almost every house in the neighborhood was an original, and any modern development has been carefully controlled. Due to the detour earlier in the day, we didn't have time to visit Cinci Han, a 17th-century caravanserai. Nonetheless, it was enjoyable to wander through the cobblestone alleys, although it was quite touristy with Turkish visitors.
Another charming village on our list was Yörük Köyü, located nearby. Though smaller than Safranbolu, it boasted similar antique wooden houses and cobblestone streets without the tourist crowds.
As we made our way towards Pinarbasi, the road became wet, and dark clouds loomed overhead. Fortunately, we managed to pass through without getting rained on. Pinarbasi was the last town before the park, and we had considered camping there. However, the damp ground and the lateness of the hour led us to choose a hotel where we ended up being the only guests.
Yedigöller National Park
Safranbolu
Typical house in Safranbolu
Safranbolu
An old house in Yörük Köyü. Notice the meurtrières/loopholes
Dirk navigates the cobblestone streets of Yörük Köyü
Pinarbasi. Wandering dogs are everywhere in Turkey, and their favorite spots are in the middle of the streets and often lying on the roads as well! No wonders many have a limp.
Day 27 - 325 km
Day 28a - Pinarbasi to Küre National Park, Turkey
Today was dedicated to exploring places within a shorter distance than usual, with the goal of visiting Küre National Park. I had seen pictures of a magnificent wooden pathway along a canyon and was eager to see it, even though I anticipated it would only be a few hundred meters long. It began beautifully and gradually became narrower and more spectacular with each passing minute, leading us deeper into the canyon. It was an incredible sight, with rushing water below us, lush green vegetation clinging to the canyon walls, and a seemingly endless wooden walkway bolted into the cliffs.
The amount of effort put into constructing this pathway on the side of the cliff was mind-boggling. It seemed to go on forever. At each turn, we expected to reach its end, but it continued to stretch ahead, captivating us with its beauty.
We walked approximately 2.5 kilometers before deciding to turn back. We realized we were only two-thirds of the way to the exit, near a waterfall accessible from the other end. The rainforest vegetation, mist, and the sound of the rushing water beneath us created a marvelous experience, and we couldn't resist capturing dozens of pictures.
Upon returning to the parking area, we paused to catch our breath and take a quick break at a café, indulging in our first espresso in a week. It was a moment to rejuvenate before continuing our journey.
Horma Canyon
Horma Canyon
Horma Canyon
Horma Canyon
Horma Canyon
Thinking that they build it by hand, meter after meter: drilling holes in the rock, cutting metal beams, fixing them etc. 🤩
Giant samovar with normal sized ones around. Used to make the ubiquitous Chai or tea here.
Day 28 - 135 km
Day 28b - Küre National Park, Turkey
After our enchanting experience at Horma Canyon, we continued our journey northward towards a dead-end road leading to an observation deck overlooking Valla Canyon. The forest path we followed was so narrow that we began to question if we were on the right track. Descending along a stone path, we passed through a picturesque alpine-like meadow where cows crossed our path, and weathered barns stood as silent witnesses. Not a human soul was in sight.
It was only after walking for 1.5 kilometers that the true grandeur of the canyon revealed itself. We ascended to the observation deck, perched 700 meters above the canyon floor. The depth of the ravine reaches at some points an astonishing 1300 meters, and the panoramic view from the deck was simply breathtaking. Both sides of the canyon came into view, with two rivers originating from opposite directions merging just below us before continuing into another gorge.
Due to my knee injury, I had already reached my hiking quota for the month , but we couldn't resist visiting a third viewpoint—the Ilıca şelalesi waterfall, marking the exit of the canyon we had ventured into earlier in the day.
Following the advice of the owner, we left our bikes in front of his simple café, resting assured that they would be safe from theft. We placed our jackets and belongings on the saddles, and embarked on the stone-covered trail leading to the waterfall, approximately 1 kilometer away. It was a sight to behold!
However, what we hadn't anticipated during this third hike was the sudden onset of rain. Though we hurried back, we still got wet. As we approached our bikes, we were delighted to discover that the café owner had covered each one with plastic sheeting and secured them with weighted wood. The kindness of the people here is truly remarkable. With the rain intensifying, we happily sought refuge in the café, indulging in chai and cheese gözleme.
It was a delightful moment, sheltered from the rain. I've always loved the sound of rain while being outside protected by a roof.
Love at first sight ❤
So many steps!
The top viewpoint
Time moves slower here
Day 28c - Küre National Park to Cide, Turkey
We had several cups of tea in that café, hoping that the rain would eventually subside. However, as the time to leave arrived, the rain persisted, and we had no choice but to get back on the bikes.
The rain intensified, and the paved surface began to deteriorate, eventually giving way to dirt. Riding uphill felt like traversing a shallow creek, and the road became increasingly slippery. We decided to stop and explore possible alternative routes because it was becoming too risky. Despite consulting our detailed maps, we could only find one option, which appeared equally treacherous from the crossroad. Anxiety crept in a little, but with no other alternatives, we resolved to try that alternative trail. By this point, the ditches had transformed into rushing creeks.
Parts of the road turned extremely muddy, and natural creeks formed across our path. The thought of setting up camp in the mud under heavy rain was far from appealing. Moreover, the rain showed no signs of relenting and could last for days. With this in mind, we cautiously continued, with Dirk repeating the mantra in our intercom, "we're going to Mongolia," a reminder not to become overconfident and risk crashing.
Navigating through the forest at a slow pace, we eventually reached the first village where the roads were more frequented and in better condition, albeit still somewhat slippery. Relieved, we continued our journey until we reached the coastal city of Cide, situated on the shores of the Black Sea.
Finding a hotel, we changed into dry clothes and set out in search of food. We encountered the hotel owner enjoying dinner with her family on the shore, and to our surprise she invited us to join them for tea. Sitting at a table under a covered eating area by the Black Sea, our host not only served us tea but also provided us with food. These people are amazing!
We celebrated an awesome and crazy day at dinner on a restaurant boat in the harbor.
There is a very good reason to why it's so green 🙂
Heavy rain starting to mess up the trails seriously. It was so slippery 😬
A well deserve rest, thanks to the generosity of our host
The restaurant-boat
View from our table
No menu, no English, so the owner of the boat restaurant brought us a plate with 3 different kinds of small raw fish and we choose the what looked like a striped red mullet. It was perfectly cooked and delicious.
Day 29 & 30 - Cide to Sinop, Turkey
Today is the first day of riding along the Black Sea. The first hours were great, even reminiscent of California's Highway 1: the scenic beauty of mountains cascading into the water, lush green forests, and sparse residential areas. Even the fog was there.
The road is wonderfully sinuous but only 1.5 lanes wide, forcing us to be on the lookout. Thankfully there were very few cars at these hours of the morning.
A brief stop in Inebolu, a town with preserved timber-topped houses didn't leave a lasting impression, so we went on. As the road east of Inebolu became less interesting, a detour onto a dirt road led to an excursion towards a lake fed by the beautiful Erfelek Tatlica Falls.
Day 30 - Rest day at Sinop
After all the adventures of Day 28 we felt that a rest day was well-deserved. We’ve planned anyway to have about one rest day weekly on this trip to recharge the batteries.
Rest days involve staying in one place for two nights without riding the bikes. Sinop proved to be a pleasant city for such a break. The main attraction was the substantial remnants of stone walls dating back four millennia. These walls, which once spanned 3 kilometers and encircled the entire city, still boasted several towers, up to 25 meters in height. This allowed for a quick visit, enabling the focus to shift to relaxation and maintenance.
We worked on several things on the bikes and bought a few missing items. We needed also to do our laundry, one of the reasons we chose an apartment rather than an hotel. We even got a haircut! I had a found memory of Turkish barbers and this experience was just as great! It felt like SPA Day .
To top it off, we enjoyed dinners with locally caught fish, skillfully grilled to perfection
Reminiscent in my eyes to Highway 1 in California
Erfelek Tatlica Falls
Love the barber experience in Turkey!
Backgammon is popular all over Turkey
Day 29 - 280 km
Day 31 - Sinop to Tirebolu, Turkey
In any long journey, there are bound to be days that simply don't live up to expectations. Today was one of those days—neither particularly good nor bad, just boring. On the map, the route appeared promising, mostly tracing the shores of the Black Sea. The journey started off well, with a fast road hugging the coastline and minimal traffic. However, as we progressed, some stretches felt desolate, or perhaps it was the gloomy weather that cast a melancholic shadow over everything.
While the scenery was decent enough, the cities we passed through lacked appeal, and navigating through them along the road, especially with the accompanying traffic, was far from enjoyable. Despite the presence of dark clouds and occasional wet patches on the road from recent showers, we were fortunate to only encounter a few drops of rain, which was a small relief.
The only moment that brightened the day were the brief instances of sunshine we experienced while traversing the quite pleasant Peninsula West of Ordu.
Even finding an accommodation in our final destination of Tirebolu proved to be a challenge. But the worst of the day is that we could not find any beer in the evening
Day 31 - 440 km
Day 32a - Tirebolu to Bayburt, Turkey
After departing Tirebolu, we swiftly changed our direction to the south through a narrow river valley characterized by steep cliffs and lush greenery. What a difference a day makes!
As we looked up at the houses and small villages perched high above us on the steep inclines, we couldn't help but ponder why the inhabitants had chosen such challenging locations as their homes.
Our path eventually led us onto a main road, which unexpectedly guided us through the newly opened Zigana Tunnel, an impressive feat stretching 14.5 kilometers!
At Macka, we veered off the main road to visit the Sumela Monastery, a Greek Orthodox monastery constructed in the 4th century AD. We had to park our motorcycles at some point and rely on a shuttle bus to reach the monastery. It felt weird to be among other tourists, all packed into buses. After disembarking, we commenced the final ascent to the monastery's entrance.
Despite it not being peak holiday season, there was a considerable number of tourists present. We explored the monastery's interior, but the most awe-inspiring aspect was the monastery's facade, clinging to the mountainside.
Uncertain about the road leading south from the monastery towards our evening destination, Bayburt, we asked around but no one could provide information regarding the road's condition beyond the monastery.
Zigana Tunnel. Due to its considerable length, the area featured alternating sections with varying lighting to prevent monotony.
Day 32 - 265 km
Day 32b - Sumela Monastery to Bayburt, Turkey
We decided to stick to our planned route, South of the Monastery and traversed high mountain villages and roads intermittently adorned with snow. The foggy and misty conditions made visibility incredibly challenging.
We crossed numerous mountain passes, hoping each one would be the last and that clearer weather awaited us on the descent. However, we reached an altitude of 2500 meters before finally descending.
Our route wound its way through another village and we were navigating a wet and somewhat slippery dirt road. Thankfully, we managed to ascend to the top without sliding too much. It was at this point that we encountered a cemetery in the middle of nowhere, with no discernible trail continuing further.
Realizing the need for an alternative route, we studied the maps and made the decision to turn back. The area appeared desolate, with scarce vehicles and only a handful of people. Unfortunately, the residents of these remote villages seemed unfriendly and unresponsive to our greetings.
We attempted two or three nearby roads, but each turned out to either stop or being too steep, wet, and muddy. As we attempted to find our way out, the rain suddenly intensified, accompanied by thunder and lightning, creating a challenging environment.
Fortunately, the weather eventually improved, the rain stopped, and the sun pierced through the dissipating clouds. Suddenly everything looked much easier compared to when we were riding in the clouds!
There were still some very muddy sections to negotiate on the downhill but after a while the trail transformed into a narrow pavement road, leading us to our final destination, Bayburt. Bayburt was once an important center on the ancient Silk Road and was visited by Marco Polo.
Day 33 - Bayburt to Ardahan, Turkey
Today is an exciting day as we’re going to ride the famous D915. We’ve been looking forward to it and really hoped that it would not be rainy or foggy as it often is because it would be treacherous and also difficult to appreciate the scenery.
But we’re in luck as the weather is great; the Bayburt castle looks fantastic in the morning light as we leave town down the road by the river with a view of snow covered mountains directly in front of us; what a glorious start to the morning.
As we venture forward, the road gradually becomes narrower, leading us through charming villages and up into the mountains. One of the many switchbacks reveals a village nestled in a lush, green alpine meadow, adorned with patches of snow in the distance. Once we conquer the summit, the road transitions into a dirt path, as we had anticipated.
The views are spectacular as we descend in to the valley and we take a leisurely pace, taking it all in and stopping numerous times to take pictures. The beauty of the surroundings, accompanied by the fragrant scent of flowers makes us so happy.
Our journey takes us to the renowned Derebaşı switchbacks, acknowledged as one of the world's most perilous routes. We approach the descent with caution, carefully navigating each treacherous switchback, well aware that a slight misstep could lead to disastrous consequences. The view from this vantage point is indescribable; neither words nor photos can do it justice.
We end up getting back to the pavement still high above the valley below. Upon reaching the valley floor, the road continues along the mountainside, accompanied by a towering, steep cliff on our left. Passing by steep fields, we see determined older women toiling away, tending to their crops. Further along, we enter a village where men leisurely sit on café terraces, enjoying cups of chai.
Eventually, we merge onto the main road, leading us northward, back towards the Black Sea. We ride east on the shore, and while the scenery remains pleasant, the road itself becomes monotonous like it’s been previously.
Thankfully, at Hopa, we redirect inland towards Camili village, near the Georgian border. Our plan was to spend the night here and embark on an eastern dirt road in the morning. However, we receive disappointing news that the road is closed. Adaptability becomes key as we backtrack to Barçka and opt for an alternate route—a beautiful, winding paved road that ultimately brings us to our destination for the night: Ardahan.
When I saw this city on the topographic map, it looked like it would be a city in a flat plain. It is flat all right, but certainly not a plain as it is sitting at more than in 1800 m of elevation! We embrace the city's pioneer vibe and savor a delightful dinner at a traditional restaurant.
There were beautiful wild flowers everywhere
Wouldn't you want to be there, where Dirk is standing?
The cliff is almost vertical but that's all I could show in a picture
We saw several of these structures, built on 4 poles. We can only imagine that it’s meant to keep animals away from what’s inside
A guard blocking a road going to... nowhere 😄 (but close to the Georgian border)
