Time2Go - Europe

In our perception, Istanbul marks both the starting and ending point of the Silk Road. Hence, Europe becomes more of a transitional phase, which we intend to traverse swiftly. The focus lies in prioritizing our time in Asia, exploring new territories rather than revisiting countries we already know, which can be saved for future summers.

Nonetheless, our aim is to relish the journey and opt for the most scenic and enjoyable roads along the way. Additionally, we have a bonus as my nephew Vincent will be joining us for the first week! He's a great person and an excellent rider, guaranteeing that the three of us will have a wonderful experience together.

Day One of the Silk Road!

The start of a long journey holds a unique charm, brimming with joy and excitement, yet accompanied by a hint of apprehension. There's always the nagging thought of whether we've forgotten something essential, or if the motorcycles will function smoothly when loaded up.

However, after just an hour on the road, all doubts dissipate, replaced by an overwhelming sense of pleasure at being back on the open road. We're heading mostly East for 24,000 kilometers, and the sheer magnitude of the journey is mind-boggling, evoking an unparalleled feeling of liberation.

The team is functioning very well. Despite Vincent and Dirk being strangers before this trip, their camaraderie was evident from the start, owing to their considerable expertise in motorcycle riding.

Our journey took us through the heart of France, passing by picturesque locales such as the Auvergne Volcanoes Park, as well as the gorges of Ardèche and Vercors. Each region has its unique architecture and distinct color of stones, yet they all share a sense of seclusion, with scarcely any traffic in sight. It's a pity that the scenic views were somewhat marred by the rain in the afternoon. Nevertheless, it was a highly successful first day!

The 3 Mousquetaires departing this morning! — in Mensignac

Beautiful Salers village

Waterfall far in the background

One of the many spectacular roads in the Vercors

Day 1 - 575 km

Day 2 - Grenoble, France to Brescia, Italy

I'm so happy that today's forecast predicts no rain. The first few hours have been a joy, with stunning views of the Parc National des Ecrins as we traversed the Alps via some exhilarating roads. The good news is that our Yamahas are performing well, boasting a flexible and easy-to-use engine. While they may feel slightly lackluster while climbing the mountains, I'm optimistic that they will improve significantly after the breaking-in period.

Sadly, the afternoon hasn't been as thrilling, as the flatlands of Northern Italy aren't renowned for their scenic beauty or winding roads. Nonetheless, we must continue on our journey as we're due to stay with my friend Miriam in Brescia.

Miriam has been kind enough to store my KTM in her garage since August, and in gratitude, I'm bringing along three more bikes and three friends to stay with her 😄. I feel incredibly fortunate to have such a generous friend in my life.

Dirk with one of the famous fortifications around Briançon

Day 2 - 530 km

Days 3 & 4 - Brescia, to Venas di Cadore, Italy

On the third day, in Brescia, our focus was on maintenance. We took the bikes to the Yamaha garage for their first service, followed by attending to my own body as I was battling a severe cold that started just before our departure. Unfortunately, the cold did not improve in the rainy and mountainous terrain of the first 2 days.

Our stomachs were attended too, as we dined at a restaurant recommended by Miriam, indulging in huge portions of the local cuisine.

Day four marked our farewell to Miriam The drive to Lake Garda was hindered by the notorious Italian traffic. The views were pleasant but hazy.

However, our spirits lifted as we began to ascend the mountains, with less traffic, more breathtaking scenery, and that feeling of liberation that only remote places can offer. Every km of the Dolomites was a joy, culminating in reaching our hotel, where we were awestruck by the spectacular view. Not a bad gift from Mother Nature to Dirk for his birthday!

I had to consolidate my luggage with the camping gear etc. that I had left at Miriam with the KTM last summer. The best way to proceed is always to first throw everything on the ground 😄

The size of all the plates in this restaurant were just insane!

Beautiful Lake Garda

An amazing detour on the hills surrounding the Lake Garda

Another great viewpoint on the Lake Garda

One of the many splendid views in the Dolomites!

Snow is not gone yet!

What a great moment it was!!

Our birthday boy in the best environment there is!

The view from our hotel 🤩

Day 4 - 360 km

Day 5 - Venas di Cadore, Italy to Ljubljana, Slovenia

We woke up to that same breathtaking view of the Dolomites while enjoying breakfast at our hotel. We were excited to tackle the many challenging hairpin turns that lay ahead of us. As we made our way to Austria, we were treated to stunning views of lush green meadows and at times, felt like we were riding through a ski resort.

Unfortunately, the road to Austria was closed, but we quickly found a great farm road that led us to an alternate route. However, this too was closed, so we gave up on going to Austria this time.

We stumbled upon a fantastic track in Slovenia that took us through the steep mountains of the Triglav National Park, with about 90 hairpin turns! The down-hill hairpins from the pass were surfaced with cobblestone, which made for a thrilling ride. We stopped for lunch in Slovenia just after we got to the bottom of the pass and enjoyed some local trout, ribs, and venison goulash.

Our next stop was Lake Bled, a breathtakingly beautiful lake with a castle high up on a cliff on the west side and a church on an island in the middle of the lake.

We finally made it to Ljubljana, a city I particularly liked last year in my visit to the Balkans. After freshening up with showers and laundry, we headed to the center of town and walked along the river until we found a nice outdoor cafe to have some beers. We stumbled upon a fantastic outdoor food fair along the river that happens every Friday and enjoyed some delicious veal liver made in a giant skillet, wine, and beer for dinner. It was the perfect end to a day filled with adventure and beautiful sights.

Fantastic Dolomites roads

Trout from the local lake for lunch

Lake Bled

Lake Bled. The church sits on its own island

Odprta kuhna (Open kitchen) is a one of a kind food market and one of the most popular culinary projects in Slovenia that brings food lovers and culinary adventurers to Ljubljana's city centre every sunny Friday.

Our delicious dinner of veal liver, aparagus and caramelized onions

How to transform a neat rental into a Nomad camp 😂

Day 5 - 350 km

Day 6 - Breakfast in Ljubljana, Slovenia, lunch in Croatia and dinner in Jajce, Bosnia-Herzegovina

After experiencing the exhilarating rides over the past few days, we knew that we had to face reality again at some point. This particular section, without mountains or distinct features, made it a challenge to find interesting routes when I prepared this trip. Nevertheless, we still relished in the beauty of Slovenia's lush countryside.

Upon crossing the border into Croatia, we rode on charming paths that ran alongside a flowing river, creating picturesque scenes. The villages we encountered along the way were adorned with unique, old-fashioned wooden houses that were unlike anything we had seen before. Our eyes were also drawn by the sight of stork nests perched high above.

When we arrived at the border of Bosnia, we realized that this was our first true border crossing, as it was not a part of the EU. Unfortunately, Dirk almost received a ticket for inadvertently trespassing into Bosnia when he missed the third booth. However, after some confusion and a series of apologies, we were able to proceed.

The final stretch of our journey led us riding along a steep and stunning river canyon for couple of hours, crossing the river several times and switching sides as we rode along the tree-covered cliffs. We eventually reached Jajce and found a great place to stay in town. We had a good local dinner consisting of a large assortment of meats and sausages, delicious bread, and beer all served just below the castle.

They love storks around here

Jajce waterfalls

Jajce is pretty quaint but has a very nice main pedestrian sreet with cafes and terraces

Day 6 - 440 km

Day 7 - Jajce to Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

If only there was a brain recording device able to translate my thoughts when riding. I would write smart stuff, acute observations, philosophical considerations and more! 😄 Instead, when I’m finally up for writing in the evening, the only thing that comes to mind is “Where were we again yesterday?”

Thankfully there are pictures and some notes taken by Dirk to help. So here it is: Short morning ride today to ensure enough time to visit Sarajevo. We just stopped on the way to explore a bit Travnik: the old town and the castle.

After checking in an apartment in Sarajevo, we planned to ride down the hill and explore the city. However, we were distracted by a gondola heading up the hill, and we decided to follow it. The steep narrow and winding streets proved to be a challenge for our heavy bikes, but the view from the top was worth it. As we continued along the gravel path, we stumbled upon the abandoned bobsled run from the 1984 Winter Olympics. It was now covered in graffiti and provided a unique sightseeing opportunity.

Back in town we visited the old town, especially the bazaar, for lunch and drinks. We stumbled upon a baklava shop and treated ourselves to some dessert.,

Sarajevo, way down there!

Sarajevo abandoned Bobsled Track after the Olympic Games

Hooka places are everywhere in Sarajevo

The oldest mosque in Sarajevo

A rare clocktower close by the mosque minaret

Love the evening atmosphere here

Three generations enjoying tea together

Day 7 - 170 km

Day 8 - Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina to the Durmitor Park and Bijelo Polje, Montenegro

The weather forecast wasn't looking too promising as rain was expected and the morning in Sarajevo was misty. It was a shame, as I really wanted my friends to appreciate the stunning places I visited last summer - Lake Piva and Durmitor Park. Despite the heavy traffic and sullen sky, luck was on our side. Just before crossing the Bosnia-Montenegro border, the sun shone through the clouds, and the scenery became instantly more enjoyable.

The border crossing post was so small it was almost comical, but the Bosnian officer was thorough and serious. After crossing a bridge with disjointed wooden planks, we were greeted by friendly locals, steep mountains, and no traffic. Soon enough, we came upon a large dam, and the once-mountainous road transformed into a path skirting the edge of the long, beautiful lake Piva. With the towering mountains on one side and the serene waters on the other, the scenery was nothing short of breathtaking. I was so glad to see my companions enjoying it the way I did. Then we took the crazy climb (a mix of rough tunnels and hairpins) to reach Durmitor Park.

From the top, we had a stunning view of the small town we had just visited far below us, a testament to the altitude we had gained so quickly. The lake sparkled in the distance, and the snowy peaks of the surrounding mountains added to the awe-inspiring vista.

We met another couple of riders who told us that the road was closed ahead so the had to come back. It’s a pity but at least there is another winding single-lane road going around the north part of the park that snaked through forests and mountain meadows. Our journey took us up, down, and then up again, and we encountered only a handful of cars and some cyclists during our hour-long ride through the park.

After a quick lunch in Zabljak, I wanted to try the south road to see if we could at least reach the shepherd's place where I spent the night last summer. Unfortunately, the snow stopped us before the pass, but the views up to that point were worth the excursion.

The rain eventually caught up with us, and we had to stop for the night in an unremarkable city. Nonetheless, the journey had been an adventure, and we had seen some incredible sights along the way.

The spectacular crossing over the river Piva

You can see the road (and Vincent) on the top right corner

Incredible trees growing right from the rocks

The North Road of the Durmitor Park

We had to do a U-turn before the pass because the road was entirely covered by snow

The East entrance pf the Park, with these walls that have required so much effort and patience!

Day 8 - 300 km

Day 9a - Bijelo Polje, Montenegro to Kosovo

The day started with a bittersweet feeling as we had to bid farewell to Vincent, our amazing riding companion. Before parting ways, Vincent had the privilege of putting the Montenegro flag on my bike

The morning was misty, but the beautiful scenery managed to captivate our attention before the fog engulfed us. Our next stop was Gjakova, a charming town with a rich history. As soon as we took off our helmets, a friendly local approached us, striking up a conversation in English. He shared fascinating insights about the town, recommending places to visit and things to see.

We decided to have lunch at a nearby café. Strangely in these countries we don’t see anyone eating, in these places as most people enjoy just a cafe no matter what time of the day or evening it is. We ordered a sandwich and struck up a conversation with our neighbors. They were highly educated and shared their personal experience of the war. Gjakova was one of the first towns to be bombarded by the Serbs, and the trauma of the war still lingers on. However, our neighbor also shared that the people of Kosovo are grateful to the West for their help during that time.

One thing that has stood out throughout our travels in Kosovo is how kind and welcoming the locals have been. It's a beautiful country with beautiful people, but the rest of our day there didn’t go that well...

Along the Old Bazar in Gjakova

Unused bridge with flat sections going up and down between the dozen poles

Gjakova

Day 9 ends very badly!

After Gjakova we did a loop in Albania to check the mountains there, and get the rights for another flag on my bike . We had a bit of fog and light rain so it was not really worth it but at least we tried.

Back in Kosovo, it was pouring rain and our caution was heightened due to prior close calls because the pavement here is incredibly slippery and treacherous when wet.

Before a turn, I lightly tapped the front brake and suddenly found myself crashing on my right side! The ABS didn’t do any good there, on a straight section of the road, to prevent the crash. I imagine that there was oil or Diesel or something very slippery that came up to the surface with the rain.

Anyway, the slide was long but could have been harmless if a car coming from the opposite direction didn’t stop my bike abruptly, when it hit the rear left door of the car. of my bike. I ended up completely okay thanks to my riding gear and a lot of luck but, unfortunately, this did not bode well for my T7, which suffered significant damage.

We spent hours dealing with the police, but in the midst of this chaotic situation, we were fortunate to meet an incredible guy, Bujar - a fellow rider who stopped when he saw the accident from his car. Words cannot express the gratitude I feel towards him for everything he did - accompanying me to the police station an hour away, calling a tow truck, transporting all my luggage in his car, arranging for the Yamaha dealer in Pristina (the capital of Kosovo) to stay open late to receive the bike, and more. It was truly incredible luck.

I was coming from this side

The whole front of the bike is completely destroyed...

... including the triple-clamps

Day 9 - 360 km. The accident happened 8 km East of Štrpce so only Dirk rode the whole way.

[In Pristina, Kosovo] Since the accident...

Since the accident occurred, our lives have been consumed by demanding work and a whirlwind of emotions. While it is possible to repair the bike, the estimate indicates that it will take a month due to the unavailability of certain parts that take weeks to arrive here in Pristina. Unfortunately, this means that we wouldn’t be able to complete our trip before the snowfall, abruptly ending our project—a disheartening realization indeed. However, in an effort to salvage our adventure, Dirk and I have been working tirelessly to explore alternative solutions.

At one point, I even considered flying back to France to purchase a new bike, but that seemed too extreme - especially financially! These past few days have been like riding an intense rollercoaster:

• UP: like my bike before the crash 😄
• DOWN: standing in the rain in front of my crashed motorcycle wondering if the trip is already over
• UP: happy to be uninjured
• DOWN: furious at myself for letting that happen after +30 years without accidents on pavement
• UP: finding a great human being that took care of us and logistics
• DOWN: learning the next morning that it would take a month to repair because parts are slow to arrive
• UP: the service team is great (friend of Bujar) and will do it’s best to help
• DOWN: the damages are extensive - complete wheel, complete fork assembly etc.
• UP: maybe we could order parts from France or Germany to accelerate the process?
• DOWN: all Yamaha dealers in Europe have no stocks and need to go through the same Nederland’s warehouse
• UP: a web site in Germany seems to have all the parts in stock
• DOWN: calling them the next morning shows that’s not the case 😞
• UP: motorcyclists friends in the US step up to help and one of them with a T7 even offers to ship the parts from his own bike!
• DOWN: parts are different in the US and it would be slow and expensive to ship them
• UP: we find a German company, not part of Yamaha, that can get parts quickly and is used to ship all over the world, including in Kosovo
• DOWN: The parts from Germany and sending them with DHL Express is not going to be cheap 😬
• UP: a couple of amazing motorcyclists friends from San Francisco decided to help me tremendously by paying a great part of the bill! Unbelievable 😍

Fortunately, Bujar doesn't let us down and he's at the garage first thing in the morning after the accident to introduce us to his friend Enis Cakolli, the Service Manager, who's been extremely helpful throughout this ordeal!

From the left: Bujar, Enis and Dirk - off course

When a taxi leaves you in front of a new place to stay at but you have to wait for your friend to help 😄

Thankfully a very nice woman from a clothing store in front of my mess ordered a coffee for me. People in Kosovo are so nice!

[Still in Pristina, Kosovo] Progress, but no set date

Some aspects are confirmed, such as the parts being secured. However, the uncertainties surrounding their shipment, arrival in Pristina, and Customs clearance remain a significant unknown 😐. In the meantime, we are keeping ourselves occupied with various activities:

• We have located a cobbler to repair my bags.
• We are exploring Pristina and taking in the sights.
• Bujar's kind friend, Adnan, generously lent me his motorcycle, despite never having met me before, so we can go on rides. Thank you, Adnan!
• Additionally, we are enjoying the abundance of bars and restaurants in our neighborhood.

He did a wonderful job for me! Plus it was cheap and done right away 👍🏻

Adnan, who was so kind to loan me his Honda Deauville for a few days

On our tour to the Kosovo mountains, Bujar's bike had a little electrical issue

We rode back to the beautiful city of Gjakova

Every night this dog lies in front of this restaurant’s door and we, like all the other guests, had to step over the dog to get in and out 😄

A typical dinner for us in Pristina would be a rough salad (i.e. vegetables whole or cut in large pieces) and then a plate of assorted grilled meats

Cheers!

[Still in Pristina, Kosovo] Fantastic motorcycle community and people from Kosovo!

Thanks to our friend Bujar, we had the pleasure of meeting additional amazing motorcycle riders. On that particular evening, eight of us gathered at a delicious restaurant, and once again, our friends would not let us pay. I can't help but reiterate that the generosity of the Kosovo locals towards travelers is truly astonishing.

Even more extraordinary, Jeton whom I had just met, offered to loan me his brand new KTM 890 Adventure to go visit Albania for a couple of days 🤩.

Despite being occupied with a significant project, he took the time to accompany me to a notary to complete the necessary paperwork for taking the bike out of the country. Subsequently, he took me to his house to collect the bike.

Thanks to Jeton's incredible gesture, we will soon enjoy riding in beautiful Albania!

From left to right: Jeton, Artan, Dirk, Jean-Luc, Sokol, Menor, Bujar and Labinot at the fantastic Gizzi restaurant

Jeton adjusting the tire pressure of his splendid KTM 890 before loaning it to me for a couple of days

Day 17a - Pristina, Kosovo to Shkodër, Albania.

Thanks to Jeton lending me his amazing KTM 890, we're back on the road, heading towards Albania as our friends enthusiastically recommended. It was such a great feeling to be back on the road and take a break from the long period of waiting we endured.

The Kosovan leg of our journey mainly consisted of freeways and country roads. It was nice, but nothing extraordinary. However, once we crossed the Albanian border, we found ourselves amidst snowcapped mountains and stunning scenery, enhanced even more by the beautiful sun that had been absent for days.

We embarked on our ride through a river valley, which eventually led us to a dam. We climbed up some switchbacks to the right of the dam and found ourselves high above the immense Fierza Reservoir, stretching a staggering 70 kilometers in length. The road followed the contours of the western mountains flanking the reservoir on both sides, as it navigated in and out of numerous coves along the way.

For a couple of hours, we were treated to a succession of tight corners, one after another. It was an exhilarating experience, navigating each turn as we continued our journey. Eventually, the road turned directly west towards Shkodër, and the last 45 minutes of our ride were on a flat stretch, providing a more relaxed conclusion to our adventure.

Coming from Kosovo to Albania via this border crossing feels like entering Switzerland 😎

Such a large scale view on this very tall dam

The remote and beautiful Fierza Reservoir in Albania

Day 17 - 290 km

D17b - Evening in Shkodër, Albania

Upon arriving in Shkodër, our first task was to find accommodations for the night. The initial room we were offered had only one bed, but fortunately, the host managed to arrange another room with two beds. While she was working on it, Dirk, who had been suffering from stomach pain the previous night and hadn't slept well, decided to take a nap on the sofa in the original room.

We stayed in the center of town, and when we stepped outside, we were taken aback by the large number of foreign tourists around. They were strolling the streets or enjoying drinks at outdoor tables. While there are foreigners in Prishtina as well, most of them are residents, working for the UN or other international missions. So it was surprising for us to see so many people who looked like typical tourists (you know the type). We even spotted a few guided tours happening.

Thankfully, there were only a few tourists as we ventured into some small and narrow side streets, where we encountered traditional-looking older houses. Some had been restored beautifully, while others stood with just their facades remaining, showcasing their history.

With an early evening after dinner, we prepared ourselves for a long day of riding ahead, eager to make the most of it.

The consequence of a tough night and tiring twisty roads 🙂

This poor pole has seen it all

Young people and old buildings

How does that even still run?!? Love the electric job on the rear pedal brake switch 😱

Beautiful cobblestone streets and old facades of Shkodër

Day 18 - Shkodër, Albania to Pristina, Kosovo

We had a long day ahead of us, so we set off at 8 am. Since the Rozafa Castle was closed at that time, we decided to take a ride along the picturesque shores of Lake Skadar, the largest lake in southern Europe. I had explored a significant portion of it in Montenegro last summer, so it was nice to see it again.

Our next destination was Theth, an old isolated village nestled high in the Albanian Alps. Theth is located at the end of a dead-end road, approximately 60 kilometers from the main road. The pass leading to the Theth valley reached a considerable elevation of 1700 meters, and as we ascended, the mountaintops became obscured by clouds. As we approached the summit, a drizzle began, and visibility became extremely poor.

Looking to the left, all we could see were clouds below us, leaving us to imagine the spectacular view on a clear day. Theth is situated in a bowl-shaped valley, surrounded by steep mountains. Considering the town's age of 300 to 350 years, we expected to encounter numerous old stone buildings, but most of the few structures there were recent.

We parked our bikes near a waterfall and an ancient wooden bridge. We crossed one of the newer wooden suspension footbridges and ascended a rocky trail to discover an abundance of water rushing between the rocks, creating breathtaking waterfalls.

We were thrilled to have arrived at this spectacular place! However, it was time to tackle the steep and slippery road on our way back. Later on, the road along the border with Montenegro was truly remarkable, as it followed a canyon for an extensive stretch. Furthermore, there was very little traffic, just like everywhere else we had been in Albania. It was a true paradise for motorcyclists.

However, upon crossing into Montenegro, the weather took a turn for the worse, with rain and a chilling temperature. We made a stop for coffee to warm up, but it didn't provide much relief. The remainder of our journey back to Pristina was on the same route we had taken the week before, and unfortunately, the weather remained miserable.

Peaceful morning on Lake Skadar

Beautiful but somehow threatening

You can see Theth village down in the valley

The little Theth church with a roof made of wooden tiles

Very unusual roof style

The narrow but spectacular road from Theth to Nderliza

I fell in love with this view

Don't miss Dirk on the top right corner

The amazing Rrapsh Serpentine or Vermosh Pass

Day 18 - 450 km

[Back in Pristina, Kosovo] Excellent news!

Before to share it, I'd like to introduce Ali, a crucial figure who helped us overcome our obstacles. Ali is the Head Mechanic at Kacandolli, the Yamaha garage. We instantly connected with him the first time we met him, and that very evening, we went out for drinks together with Enis. It was enjoyable to share our passion for Adventure riding and exchange stories. Despite his youthful appearance, Ali is an exceptional and highly experienced mechanic.

We encountered overwhelming difficulties while trying to collect two packages of parts from Germany that we had been eagerly awaiting. The packages were sent to the garage as if they were the final customer, rather than a simple delivery address. We found ourselves running back and forth between DHL, Prishtina Customs, the garage, and even the Customs office at the airport, yet we made no progress, despite Bujar's assistance.

Finally, even though it was not his responsibility to deal with customs, Ali went above and beyond to help. He personally took charge, engaging with a Customs Broker and coordinating with DHL to obtain our parts on a Saturday afternoon. It was truly commendable .

Words cannot express how happy and thrilled we are since that news!

Ali's dedication goes beyond what is typically expected even from the best garages in the US. He goes the extra mile to find solutions when it becomes challenging or costly to replace parts. For instance, he skillfully welded my broken RAM mount, which is made of cast aluminum and notoriously difficult to weld. He also repaired my skid plate using riveted metal brackets and plastic welding.

Once again, a huge thank you to Ali for going above and beyond to ensure that we can hit the road again very soon.

[Pristina, Kosovo] Wrap-up thoughts about Kosovo - from someone who just discovered it and therefore has no idea of what he is talking about

When people hear about Kosovo, their initial thoughts often revolve around war, drama, and poverty. However, the reality today paints a starkly different picture:

• As you know from my previous posts we were surprised by the incredible kindness of the people here. This kindness goes above and beyond anything we have experienced elsewhere, especially when we connect with fellow motorcyclists.

• One of the reasons for that is a strong sense of gratitude towards Westerners and Americans in particular, which has benefited us during our time here.

• English proficiency is widespread in Kosovo, especially among the younger generations. It's fascinating to learn that kids often acquire English skills through platforms like YouTube, and some even feel more comfortable communicating in English than in Albanian! In any case, that made establishing reports with people so much easier.

• The war still lingers in the minds and conversations of the people. It has left a lasting impact on their collective psyche, even for those who were children at the time. Nevertheless, the people have moved forward and are firmly oriented towards Europe. Visitors today won't find any physical remnants of the war either.

• As the majority of people in Kosovo are Islamic, drinking alcohol in bars is less common but there is a complete acceptance towards those who do, often at the same table. By the same token While there may be a few women who choose to dress in a conservative Muslim manner, the majority of women in Kosovo embrace a fashion sense that aligns with the trends in cities like Milan or Los Angeles.

• Air pollution is a significant issue due to outdated diesel vehicles and a lack of mandatory pollution tests for cars. The pollution of smoking is just as bad in bars and restaurants because most people are heavy smokers and smoke inside (in theory in a separate section), which can be challenging for Californians like us.

• Although on paper Kosovo may be labeled as one of the poorest countries in Europe, the reality is far from it and luxury German cars are proportionally more visible here than anywhere else. We also have witnessed an incredible number of new constructions taking place, along with a significant number of abandoned buildings, both finished and unfinished.

• The reason for the buying power being much higher than expected is probably because Kosovo has a large diaspora, especially in Germany (and Switzerland), that sends a lot of money back home. Germany is quite on top of their minds and I’m jealous of Dirk sometimes who gets all the attention because of it

• One more thing that impressed us in Kosovo is that people here are very entrepreneurial and risk takers, at least 80% of the ones we met. They create their businesses (restaurants, construction, architecture, civil engineering...) and they do not hesitate to deploy it internationally. It seems that the perceived limitation of living in a small country actually serves as a catalyst, propelling them to explore opportunities abroad.

It's important to challenge the stereotypes associated with Kosovo and experience instead the genuine hospitality of its great people!

The concentration of cafés in our neighborhood is even bigger than in Paris!

The population in Prishtina is very young and most bars trendy, but the older style coexists as well.

As I said, heavy smokers 😂

Still forging tools by hand 🤩

The famous clock tower, in a town without too many memorable monuments

We saw this cute tractor all over the territory of the ex-Yugoslavia as it was produced there 40-50 years ago

This picture amuses me because it's reminiscent of the soviet times and it's such a contrast to the rest of the city that has very modern malls, including one amongst the top 3 biggest in Southern Europe

This is the end of a long pedestrian boulevard, lined up with cafés and tons of people just going by. We enjoyed it every day.

Day 23 - Pristina, Kosovo to Plovdiv, Bulgaria

Ali and his team went above and beyond by working late last afternoon to ensure my bike was ready on Monday night instead of Tuesday. I can't thank Alirossi enough for his exceptional service! Moreover, they were incredibly kind about the labor cost.

I'd also like to express my immense gratitude to my three rider friends, Skip Speaks, Christian Bremeau, and also Bill Dussell, who generously contributed to the majority of the invoice. Their support and assistance have been invaluable. A big thank you to them as well!

Although having the bike ready earlier was a pleasant surprise, we ironically felt a bit rushed after being stranded here for two weeks. We're excited to finally continue our journey but also a bit saddened to say goodbye to our newfound friends, especially during our last dinner with Bujar.

On Tuesday morning, we depart after a final visit to Kacandolli, as Ali wanted to ensure the bike was in good condition after our shake-up ride the previous night. Thankfully, everything seems to be clear and in order.

Our journey through North Macedonia is uneventful, but we thoroughly enjoy the lush green and hilly Bulgarian landscape. It feels incredible to be back on the road again!

After a long day of riding, we decide to spend the night in Plovdiv, a city that piqued my interest during trip preparations. Although we don't have much time to explore the Roman ruins and other attractions, we dive straight into the lively neighborhood filled with narrow cobbled streets, numerous restaurants, and bustling bars. The vibrant atmosphere surprises us, as the area is bustling with activity and many of the restaurants are fully booked. Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoy immersing ourselves in the festive ambiance and relish the experience.