Our tracks in Kazakhstan
Day 74 - A Rocky Start in Kazakhstan - Four Disappointments in a Day
We began our day in Karakol with a visit to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, a charming wooden Orthodox church dating back to 1895. Its serene atmosphere and old-fashioned vibe, with its beautiful flowers and traditional old-style dresses and traditional attire, made it a delightful way to start the day.
While we knew we'd miss Kyrgyzstan, the reality hit us harder than expected. The day started promisingly, with pleasant roads and an easy border crossing into Kazakhstan. Thanks to the Eurasian Economic Union (includes Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Armenia), we avoided the hassle of temporary motorcycle import procedures.
One big relief at the border was that we didn’t have to pay for speeding tickets while riding in Kyrgyzstan, unlike some other travelers. Surprisingly, there are speed cameras everywhere in Kyrgyzstan, even in the smallest villages and sometimes in the middle of nowhere. The problem is they very rarely post the speed limit! We found on the internet that it could be 40, 60, or 90 km/h, but it’s still hard to guess.
Kazakhstan greeted us with pleasant scenery and well-paved roads, although there were no snow-capped mountains in sight. Like in Kyrgyzstan, people here love flowers, and the gardens are beautiful. The country's wealthier appearance, evident in the modern cars, was a stark contrast to its neighbor.
However, our hopes for a Moab-style adventure - ride, hike, camp freely - were dashed upon arrival. The canyon had become a very popular tourist destination, with crowded parking lots and a single daily shuttle to the camping area. Worse, it was now impossible to explore the canyon with a vehicle. Leaving our motorcycles unattended in a crowded parking lot wasn't an option, so we reluctantly abandoned the plan.
While it’s wonderful that people in Kazakhstan can now enjoy more their natural wonders, this sudden surge of domestic tourism was not good for us, and very different from past experiences described in different blogs. Disappointment #1.
Next, we set our sights on Lake Kaindy, a stunning lake formed by an earthquake in 1911. The submerged spruce trees, preserved in crystal-clear water, were a sight to behold.
We supposed that it would be popular, but we imagined that the rough, partly flooded road requiring 4x4 vehicles would limit the number of visitors. That was without counting on an army of UAZ vans! These robust Russian vehicles were bringing group after group of tourists to the lake. We paid the entrance fees and did our best to reach the lake, but between the deep water crossings and the many vehicles on the way, we gave up midway and did a U-turn. Disappointment #2.
Discouraged, we moved on to the Kolsai Lakes, only to find another long queue of vehicles. We didn't even try. Disappointment #3.
At this point, we gave up on any tourist attraction, realizing how lucky we had been so far on our 2.5 months of travels. We continued on our planned route, a faint dirt road going over the Kyzyl-Auz Pass at over 3000 meters. The road was clearly abandoned, but a fellow ADVrider had done it a dozen years ago, so we persisted, knowing that the only alternative to reach Almaty was to go back to the Charyn Canyon! After a while, we realized it was pointless as the track was gone for good. Disappointment #4.
Determined to end on a higher note, we started to head back and eventually found a beautiful spot to camp after riding for a couple of hours. We had an awesome moment there, on top of a ridge, watching a dark cloud dropping rain in the landscape, moving around but luckily not in our direction. It was really cool, with big rumbling sounds from that cloud but no lightning—a natural show just for us.
Holy Trinity Cathedral and old fashioned dressed
Our breakfast this morning
I love these little UAZ, but not when there are so many of them 😄
They go everywhere, and at a good pace
We reluctantly have to accept that this will not go further 😕
All that space and views, just for ourselves, finally!
Russian vodka, local cheese and a French saucisson brought by Vincent 😋
Ready for the show
Watching the rain clouds do their business. They were nice enough to avoid us, but not by far.
Day 74 - 380 km
Day 75-77: Camping to Almaty
The sun rises early in Kazakhstan (4:30am), and the warmth in our tent nudged us awake. We sat together, savoring the serene morning scenery.
We retraced our route to the Charyn Canyon turn-off and continued straight toward Almaty. Before reaching the freeway, we decided to take a less-traveled road. Much like in Kyrgyzstan, we saw many people hitchhiking, including a significant number of women and solo young girls. I find that cool because it’s humans helping each other and it also means that it’s safe for women here.
Before arriving at our hotel, we planned to wash our bikes and perform some light maintenance the next day. However, just two minutes after leaving the car wash, it began to rain and didn't stop until we reached Almaty!
Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan, has a strong historical significance even though no historic buildings are visible. It’s rather a mix of modern architecture and Soviet-era buildings. We enjoyed strolling through its numerous parks and dining at its great restaurants. Initially, we were disappointed by the lack of small, charming streets, but the city's green spaces and attractive buildings won us over.
Almaty offers all the conveniences of Western cities, such as Uber and DoorDash, albeit under different names and with more choices. The city also boasts a great network of buses (including electric ones), cycle roads, and electric scooters.
We heard a lot of Russian in the streets. Historically, Russians made up about 20% of Almaty's population, but this seems to have doubled since the war, leading to a dramatic increase in prices, much to the locals' dismay. During our short stay, we noticed the absence of Western tourists.
Saying goodbye to Vincent after the first night was tough. His positivity and determination to push forward despite obstacles have been inspiring. Thank you, Vincent, for joining us again!
We extended our stay a bit, hoping to receive 2 pairs of the fantastic new Doubletake Mirror from our friend Ned. Unfortunately, despite being sent well in advance, they got stuck in the local UPS warehouse and customs—Kosovo all over again. We're bummed to leave without them, but huge thanks to Ned Suesse anyway!
Time for a big clean before to get in a big city 🙂
We had good food in Almaty
The ascension Cathedral
Day 75 - 240 km
Day 78 - Almaty to Basshi
After a pleasant stay in Almaty, we were eager to hit the road again and explore a new destination: Altyn Emel National Park.
The day started hot, even in the early morning, but the breeze from our speed made it bearable. Our route took us along the western and northern shores of the Kapchagay Reservoir, a fairly large lake. We arrived in the small village of Basshi around noon, found a campsite, and bought our park passes. From there, we headed toward the Aktau Mountains, 80 km east of the park. The gravel road was corrugated and uncomfortable, but we maintained a good pace through a relatively underwhelming landscape. This time there were no issues with over-tourism; we barely saw anyone.
A quick detour led us to see a 700-year-old willow tree. It is believed that a nearby water hole with warm (28°C) radon water caused genetic and chromosomal mutations, resulting in the giant willow.
As the day grew hotter, we endured temperatures of 35-38°C, which was taxing. Finally, we reached the Aktau Mountains, with their beautiful ochre, white, and red colors. We explored a stunning viewpoint on foot, enjoying the moment with a few clouds and a breeze to cool us down before heading back the same way.
Back at the "Caravanserai Camping" before 4 pm, we planned to rest a bit, refuel, and then return to the park to visit the "Singing Dune," a sand mountain that rumbles but never moves. As with most dunes, it’s much more beautiful at sunset, so we decided to wait a couple of hours. Still suffering from the heat, we undressed, set up our tents, chatted with the Russian owner (a KTM rider as well), had a beer, and then decided the dune looked too much like the ones in California to be worth getting back on our bikes again.
The 700 years old Willow tree
and a dog happy to be in its shade
Arriving at the Aktau Mountains
Despite the midday light, the colors were spectacular
Watch out!
Our bikes in their natural habitat
In preparation for this trip we read a book I loved called "Apples come Kazakstan" (they really do). The ones from the orchard at our campground were delicious!
A couple of hedgehogs eat with the cats on the evening
One of the travelers at camp had this really cool rig
Day 77 - 380 km
Day 79: A Vast and Empty Land - Basshi to Usharal
Kazakhstan's immense scale became apparent immediately. With a population density six times lower than the contiguous United States, the country is a vast expanse of empty space. While agriculture is a significant industry, many fields lay fallow, covered in a vibrant tapestry of wildflowers.
The scenery, though pleasant, offered few opportunities for dramatic photographs. The relentless heat became increasingly oppressive as the day wore on. To escape the scorching plains, we sought refuge in the foothills, where the landscape was more varied and the temperatures slightly cooler. The vast, monotonous plains below seemed even hotter from this vantage point.
Despite the challenging conditions, we managed to cover a significant distance, traveling 500 kilometers before finding a hotel in a small town. It was a long, hot day, but we made good progress and were grateful to find a place to rest.
Day 80 - Usharal to Ayagoz
Today, we continued our eastward journey, taking a detour along the shores of Lake Alakol. This lake is significantly larger than most well-known lakes in Europe and is reputed to be beautiful, with several islands dotting its waters. However, it was already 32 degrees Celsius by 8:30 in the morning. Despite the heat, the straight road remained interesting as we had mountains to our right and the lake to our left. We passed between Lake Alakol and the much smaller Lake Zhalanashkol via a road that was once paved but is now a mess. The heat was so intense that our phones’ screens turned dark from overheating (induction charging didn’t help). Fortunately, we had as a backup, our trusty Garmin Montana for navigation.
Our plan was to visit the lake up close in the town of Qabanbay, on the eastern shore. As we rode into town, we saw shops selling water toys for tourists. When we reached the lake, we were surprised by how much of a tourist hotspot it was. The narrow streets near the lake were lined with open-air shops, and the beach was packed with people crammed under umbrellas. It was quite an unexpected sight, especially in such a remote area. We walked around for a few minutes, looking certainly weird with our gear amongst the beach goers, but the high heat and the crowds made us eager to move on.
Next, we planned to take a dirt road over the mountains to avoid the long way around and get a break from the monotonous straight roads. Unfortunately, after about 20 km, it became clear that no one had traveled this path for some time and since the track ahead wasn’t on any of our maps, we decided to turn around. Our long detour eventually took us to Ayagoz for the night.
A very unexpected sight, especially in such a remote area
A camel ? Why not ? 😄
Street food by the beach. Not the most tempting with this heat!
The beautiful entrance of our "hotel room"
Deep fried eggplants with fresh salad inside 👍🏻
Day 79 - 550 km
Day 81 - Ayagoz to Bukhtarma Reservoir
When we checked the road for the day, we saw it was mostly paved and thought it would be faster and easier. But in Kazakhstan, paved roads can often be littered with potholes, bumps, and sections that are no longer paved at all. During roadwork, they bulldoze a parallel dirt road that can stretch for a few kilometers—or sometimes 20—and the vehicles just have to deal with it.
The scenery was lovely this morning, and riding through the meandering hills was a refreshing change from the long, straight roads of the previous afternoon. The consecutive bumps didn’t do our backs any favors, though. We stopped at the Vogas Cafe for something to eat since we had no breakfast. After lunch, one of the women at the restaurant saw us trying to clean our helmet visors and brought us both a small towelette to make the job easier. People here are just so observant and attentive.
Our goal for the evening was to reach the Bukhtarma Reservoir and cross it by ferry. The slow pace during the crossing was a welcome break and an opportunity to chat with other passengers. When they speak a bit of English, they often offer help, and we exchanged numbers in case anything went wrong. These people are amazing.
Once the ferry landed, it felt like we had arrived in a completely different place. The scenery was far more beautiful, and riding along the water of the reservoir in the late afternoon was fantastic. Our plan was to ride a bit and then find a nice camping spot by the water for the night.
After about an hour of riding, we saw a sandy spot with trees for shade and a dirt road leading to it. There was already a car there, but we predicted they wouldn’t stay for the night, so we pulled off to the side so as not to bother the family enjoying their afternoon swimming in the sun. We put on our shorts, set up our chairs, and enjoyed the great weather at this fantastic spot on the lake. We snacked on some pistachios until the little boy from the family next to us came over and offered each of us a crepe as a snack. Amazing!
As we were sitting on the beach, a car came by and proceeded quickly down the beach. Before we knew it, we could see them in the water in the distance. Definitely locals. The family with the young boy left a few hours before sunset, and once they were gone, we set up our tents between the two large trees for shade in the morning. We put our chairs between the tents and enjoyed the amazing light that the evening sun had brought.
Eventually, the other car returned and stopped by our site to engage in a conversation using some broken English and Google Translate. It was fun! We took pictures, exchanged Instagram accounts, and they gave us a handful of cucumbers to eat for dinner. Another couple arrived just before sunset, planning to have their dinner by the lake. They introduced themselves, went for a swim and ate, and then, just before leaving, they came over to us and offered us some stuffed pastries. Again, the generosity of people here!
We had a fantastic evening camping along the reservoir. What a perfect spot (maybe not including some of the bugs).
What about that for a paved road?
A woman selling smoked fish on the line for the ferry. Her cart wheels have seen better days!
Dirk engaging with other passengers
Looking for a spot to camp...
IWWTRG - "I Wonder Where That Road Goes?" Thanks Ray for another great acronym 😎
We found the perfect spot!
Aaaaahhhhh...
One of the many nice encounters we've made in this country
Two happy fellows
Can you see all the flying insects? 😱
What a magical, peaceful, beautiful moment!
Day 81 - 475 km
Day 82 - Bukhtarma Reservoir to Shemonaiha
Our night at the beautiful spot by Bukhtarma Reservoir was pleasant, though we had to make some adjustments. An eye mask for the sun rising at 3:30 am (!) and earplugs for the cows that paid us a visit soon after made all the difference.
As we started packing up, a couple of horses wandered around our bikes, adding to the morning’s charm.
The road continued along the shore of the reservoir for many more kilometers (it's 450 km long!), with enjoyable views and comfortable temperatures.
We then journeyed through ever-changing landscapes, sometimes reminiscent of Auvergne, other times of Scotland. Wildflowers were everywhere, displaying an incredible variety.
Some fields were vast, and it was surprising to see that the farms were far apart with modest, old tractors. I wondered how they managed to harvest quickly enough, but perhaps all the neighbors pitch in to help.
By the afternoon, we felt tired even though the temperature wasn't as hot as in previous days. We pushed on nonetheless to get closer to the Russian border. Shemonaiha is only 20 km away from the border, which is its only point of interest. The town is nondescript and lacks any real restaurants, making it a rather sad place to live in.
Morning's visitors
One of the spectacular fields! We also saw beautiful sunflowers' ones.
Scenery looks like Europe but not how straight the road is
